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Elastic

by Posted in 3.1 General & Homemade Tagged

I’m so excited by this… organic, biodegradable plasticfree elastic!! I haven’t used it yet as I’ve only just found it, but drawstring trousers are a thing of the past. The following is taken from Offset Warehouse website.

What’s so great about this elastic?

Not only is it made using certified organic cotton, it also uses natural instead of synthetic rubber to make it stretch and recover. Both of these materials provide a more stable income for farmers, allowing the local economy to grow. Generally, groves where natural rubber is tapped, is also a protected conservation area. At the end of its life, or at the end of your garment’s life, this elastic can biodegrade unlike its synthetic counterpart. Read more about this elastic, and why we’re so thrilled to be stocking it, over on our shop.

More

This is an introduction to why you might want to, and how you can start, sewing plastic free

N.B.
lines changes, products get removed. For more information why not ask the Plastic Is Rubbish FB group for updates. They are a great source of tidbits, personal experience and the latest news. Why not join them and share the plastic free love x

And before you go…

If you have found the #plasticfree information useful, please consider supporting us. It all goes to financing the project (read more here) or

Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com
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Gels

by Posted in 3.1 Personal, 4 About The Alternatives Tagged ,

Xanthan Gum

Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide with many industrial uses, including as a common food additive. It is an effective thickening agent and stabilizer to prevent ingredients from separating. It can be produced from simple sugars using a fermentation process, and derives its name from the species of bacteria used, Xanthomonas campestris.

Wikipedia

It can be used in lieu of gelatine. Measure out half the amount of xanthan gum. ie  for i  2 tbsp. of gelatin, use 1 tbsp. of xanthan gum. For baked products, add around 1 tsp. for every cup of flour added.

Hyaluronate Acid

Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a glycosaminoglycan found in various connective tissue of humans.Wikipedia

Hyaluronate Acid is

A white powder with no aroma. Commercially, much of it is sourced from poultry (rooster combs) which we refuse to stock. The type we have sourced is made by producing enzymes from a bacteria based biofermentation process. It is guaranteed to be animal free.

1 gr Sodium Hyaluronate
98,4 gr Distilled Water
If you have an air conditioning system or an electric dehumidifier, you can use the water which accumulates during their use as well. The dehumidifier usually has a container the water is collected in. Household air conditioners have an external compressor water tends to fall under, so place a bucket underneath and collect the water that way. https://thewatergeeks.com/how-to-distill-water/

She suggests adding a preservative but I don’t as preservatives react with my skin.

weigh the Sodium Hyaluronate and the water
Pour the Sodium Hyaluronate on top of the water

“At this point some people like to mix it and some people like to let it be.
I have actually tried both ways and here is my experience: if you try to mix it at this stage, part of the SH will stick to the spoon. This means that a precious part of your gel will get lost (and SH is not exactly cheap, so you’d want to mind this).
IMO it is better to let the SH hydrate by itself on top of the water for a while, and stir later.

4) Cover the glass with plastic film and let it rest in the fridge for few hours.

5) After few hours the SH will be hydrated. Now you can stir it with a spoon so to make the gel more smooth (there will be harder parts and softer parts).

6) Add your preservative, stir again and put in a bottle 🙂

You can use this Gel by itself, for its great hydrating properties!
If you have a very dry skin you could like to use it before applying your cream 🙂
You could also make a more luxurious gel by substituting part of the water (or the entire water) with Rose water!

As you might have noticed in the market we can find creams or serums that say “40% Hyaluronic Acid”.
Well, as you can see I am using 1% of Sodium Hyaluronate and this is the highest concentration I can use.

Taken from this great blog

Check out all our home made make here

 

N.B.

Lines changes, products get removed. For more information why not ask the Plastic Is Rubbish FB group for updates. They are a great source of tidbits, personal experience and the latest news. Why not join them and share the plastic free love x

And before you go…

If you have found the #plasticfree information useful, please consider supporting us. It all goes to financing the project (read more here) or

Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com

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Sun Block Creams & Lotions

by Posted in 3.1 Personal Tagged , , , 1 Comment

 The following information is for guidance only. None of the following recipes or tips have not been tested on anyone other than me. I strongly advise you do your own research and proceed very carefully. Sunburn is painful, ages the skin and potentially very dangerous.

Disclaimer

Be aware of the risks of listening to someone who
a) doesn’t have any training in this field,
b) most of what they know comes from Google,
That’s me I mean.

If you want a better informed opinion I suggest you head on over to the Aromantics website. They will sell you everything you need to make sun tan lotion including recipes you can download as a PDF. They have been in this game for years and are far more qualified then I am.
The following is an account of my own experiences which may help you in your own research.

A Tannning History

I realised that I needed sun tan / block lotion and lots of it. And it needs to be applied regularly. Even in cloudy weather. I came to this conclusion just as I was giving up plastic. So not only did I have to learn to use sunblock and had to learn how to make it. I have been using zinc based, home-made sun block lotion for about 5 years now. I know it stops me from burning because I burn when I don’t use it. Obviously it has not been tested in a lab and I cannot guarantee results.
I cannot guarantee the SPF factor or that it is not doing unseen damage.
I still try to limit my exposure to the sun but I feel this cream definitely helps me. I offer this personal account for discussion only. If you do decide to make your own lotion please do more research.

There is lots more information about sun protection here. Do read up before you decide to make your own.

Why Sunscreen
Sunscreens help prevent the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) radiation from reaching the skin.
There are two types of ultraviolet radiation, UVA and UVB
UVB is the chief cause of sunburn and linked to sun cancer. UVA rays, penetrate the skin more deeply, and contribute to photoaging.
You need a cream that protects from both.
Creams protect in following ways
Physical sunscreens reflect the sunlight
chemical sunscreens absorb UV light

Physical blockers
Physically block the rays of the sun by covering the skin in a thin coating of white powder that deflects the light. They include Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide.
They can leave white sheen on the skin.
Chemical Blockers
Most other sunscreen ingredients beyond titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are chemical sunscreens
Physical blockers tend to be more stable, while chemical sunscreens may degrade and are often paired with other sunscreen ingredients to increase stability. (See more information at AMF.org.)
Some people are allergic or sensitive to chemical sunscreens.

Sun Block Active Ingredients
Against UVB (290-320nm):
Aminobenzoic Acid (PABA), Cinoxate, Dioxybenzone, Ensulizole, Homosalate, Octocrylene, Octinoxate, Octisalate (Octyl Salicylate), Oxybenzone, Padimate O, Sulisobenzone, Trolamine Salicylate, Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide
UVA (320-340nm):
Dioxybenzone, Ecamsule (Mexoryl), Helioplex, Meradimate, Oxybenzone, Sulisobenzone, Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide
UVA (340-400nm): Avobenzone, Zinc Oxide

SPF
Sun protective factor provided by cream is measured in SPF
SPF factors only measure protection against UVB. You will need a cream that also protect from other kinds of rays.
SPF4 filters out 75% of UVB
SPF10 filters out 90% –
SPF15 filters out 93%
SPF25 filters out 96%
SPF30 filters out 97%
SPF50 filters out 98%
SPF100 99%
Source

Applying Cream
Sunscreens are unlikely to be fully effective after 2 hours
According to the skin cancer organisation  “you need to apply 1 oz – about a shot glass full. Studies show that most people apply only half to a quarter of that amount, which means the actual SPF they have on their body is lower than advertised. During a long day at the beach, one person should use around one half to one quarter of an 8 oz. bottle. Sunscreens should be applied 30 minutes before sun exposure to allow the ingredients to fully bind to the skin. Reapplication of sunscreen is just as important as putting it on in the first place, so reapply the same amount every two hours. Sunscreens should also be reapplied immediately after swimming, toweling off, or sweating a great deal.

Buy

Anything But Plastic online sell this – Shade Sunscreen for £9.75 for 100ml
But at that price I will also have to continue making my own.

Making Sun Block At Home

The following information is for guidance only. None of the following recipes or tips have not been tested on anyone other than me. I strongly advise you do your own research and proceed very carefully. Sunburn is painful, ages the skin and potentially very dangerous.

Disclaimer
Be aware of the risks of listening to someone who
a) doesn’t have any training in this field,
b) most of what they know comes from Google,
That’s me I mean.

If you want a better informed opinion I suggest you head on over to the Aromantics website. They will sell you everything you need to make sun tan lotion including recipes you can download as a PDF. They have been in this game for years and are far more qualified then I am.
The following is an account of my own experiences which may help you in your own research.
I use
Zinc Oxide
This is a fine white powder that coats the skins and so reflects the damaging and burning rays of the sun.
It protects the skin from UVA, UVB and UVC.
I am currently researching  Microfine Titanium Dioxide. 

Using Zinc Oxide

This is a fine white powder easily available on line.
It coats the skins and so reflects the damaging and burning rays of the sun.
It protects the skin from UVA, UVB and UVC. According to www.aromantic.co.uk website (where you can buy zinc and get advice on how to use it),
It is one the oldest and most effective sunblock and
It can be easily added to base lotions and oils.

No to Nano Zinc

So zinc is great BUT it is a white powder and stronger mixes can sit on the skin like a pasty mask. Make your lotion too strong and you look like Marcel Marceau. You don’t burn but you look freaky. To counter this some suggest using nano zinc.
Nano or micronized zinc oxide is zinc oxide that  has been ground to a very fine powder to reduce the size of its particles. Anything with a particle size smaller than 100nm is considered a nano particle. This means it spreads more easily and does not leave a white sheen on the skin.The worry is that particles this size may be able to enter the body.
Because of that I use normal zinc. In stronger concentrations it does leave a slight white sheen. It can also leave white marks on dark clothes. Wear white linen is the obvious answer to this. Or work on your locked in a glass box mime.

Using Zinc In Homemade Sun Block

None of the below have been tested in lab and you have no accurate way of knowing  what SPF your lotion has. Proceed sensibly! If in doubt Make your lotion stronger then dilute as you tan.

Too much zinc and you end up with white clown makeup. In this case you may have been overcautious.

You can add zinc to
home made creams and lotions (if you want to make a lotion there are some recipes here)
ready bought lotions
a base oil such as coconut oil.

20% zinc oxide  will give an approximate SPF of 30. That is by weight. So you weigh your base say 100g of cream then you add 20% or 1/5th of zinc. Which is 20g of zinc.

You can see from the ratios below that SPF 15 is not half of SPF 30 so you cannot use that scale to work out your SPF factors.
For SPF 2-5: Use 5% zinc oxide
For SPF 6-11: Use 10% zinc oxide
For SPF 12-19: Use 15% zinc oxide
For SPF >20: Use 20% zinc oxide

These ratios were taken from DIY Natural. They have not been tested in a lab proceed with caution

Recipes

Lotion
Oil
Masking Cream
Oily Lotion

Sun Block Oils
Zinc
Oil – I have used both coconut and rice bran oil

I used to add zinc to creams and lotions. More recently I have cut out the middle man or rather the cream and started adding zinc directly to oil.

Which Oil?
I guess you could do this with any oil but I prefer a lighter oil less gloopy than say olive oil.
I have usually used coconut oil as a base because it is light and easily obtained in glass jars. Some claim that coconut oils has an ability to deflect burning rays but the claims made for coconut oil are prodigious. Do not rely on coconut oil alone.
The problem with coconut oil in the UK at least, it solidifies below a certain temperature. This sun tan lotion needs to be liquid and well shaken before use because the ingredients separate. So if you use coconut oil, warm and shake it before applying.
More recently I used rice bran oil which is much cheaper and easily available. At least that is the case in Thailand. It is a light oil and does not solidify.

Advantages Of Oil
Oily creams and oils are great for the beach because I feel they don’t wash off so easily in the sea as home made lotions do. And the oil itself seems to act as an added protection against the general drying effect of salt water and heat. My skin doesn’t feel as itchy. But then I am only using two ingredients no fragrances, no preservatives.
They give your skin a rather nice sheen.
And it is As Cheap As Chips
Adding zinc to rice bran oil is super cheap which means you can liberally apply this lotion. Very good if you are on a budget. Plus I get to use the oil for other things.
The disadvantages? – well it is rather… oily…

VERY IMPORTANT NOTE
The ingredients separate so the lotion must be well shaken before use. If you are using an oil that solidifies like coconut you need to be sure it is liquid and well mixed before use.

SOME OILS MAY MARK YOUR CLOTHING. EXPERIMENT FIRST

Sun Block Lotion
Zinc
Thin Lotion
Add zinc to a lotion.
Find out how to make Lotion here

Masking Creams
Very strong and thick. To be used on vulnerable areas that burn easily.

First I make my own rather thick cream and then add the zinc at 20% ratio. This makes a super thick cream which is difficult to rub on large areas but great for masking specified areas. I use it to protect my great big nose and around my eyes.
For general application it is too tough and sticky.
Find out how to make cream here

Oily Cream
Zinc
Cream
OIl
You can thin the above thick cream down by adding oil. N.B. You cant use water for this. Add water and your cream starts to separate when you try to rub it on.
Oily cream goes on way more easily but obviously the more you dilute is lower the SPF factor.
The advantage of this cream is that it is thicker than oil alone so easier to apply – less dribbling.
It does not separate.

Store Bought Base Creams & Lotions
Apparently you can add zinc to a store bought cream to make a suntan lotion. I have never tried this as I gave up shop bought years ago. But considering the success off adding it to oil I can see no reason why this wouldn’t work. Do remember that zinc makes your lotion thicker and much whiter. It might be a good idea to use a thin lotion as a base.
Apparently it helps if you warm them first.
Let me know how you get on!

Applying Cream
Sunscreens are unlikely to be fully effective after 2 hours
According to the skin cancer organisation  “you need to apply 1 oz – about a shot glass full. Studies show that most people apply only half to a quarter of that amount, which means the actual SPF they have on their body is lower than advertised. During a long day at the beach, one person should use around one half to one quarter of an 8 oz. bottle. Sunscreens should be applied 30 minutes before sun exposure to allow the ingredients to fully bind to the skin. Reapplication of sunscreen is just as important as putting it on in the first place, so reapply the same amount every two hours. Sunscreens should also be reapplied immediately after swimming, toweling off, or sweating a great deal.

Fragrance
Many recipes on line suggest adding essentials oils. In my opinion there is no real benefit to be derived from this as
they may make your skin more sensitive to light;
essential oils are resource hungry, have a large environmental footprint and should only be used on special occasions.
You can read more here

PLASTIC SPOILER

You can buy zinc on line.
It will come in a plastic bag- booo.
The best you can do is ensure the bags are polythene and so can be more easily recycled.
As I get huge amounts cream out of one small bag of ingredients, I consider it a worthwhile compromise.

Travelling Plastic Free For Months
This discovery massively reduces your plastic when travelling. I carry all my own home made plastic free toiletries with me to avoid creating plastic waste which can present something of a problem. A years supply of sunblock is a lot to carry. So now I compromise. I take my own zinc and buy coconut oil (or rice bran oil) while travelling. I mix the zinc into the coconut oil to make a sun tan lotion great for the beach.

N.B.

Lines changes, products get removed. For more information why not ask the Plastic Is Rubbish FB group  for updates. They are a great source of tidbits, personal experience and the latest news. Why not join them and share the plastic free love x

And before you go…

If you have found the #plasticfree information useful, please consider supporting us. It all goes to financing the project (read more here) or

Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com

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Fairshare Fabrics All Years

by Posted in 3.1.7 wear, 4.3 My Projects Tagged ,

Summary

In 2015 I pledged to  use no more than my fair global share of fibres and they had to be sustainably sourced. I was trying to determine what is a reasonable amount of clothing/furnishings.

In this post you will find information on the following

  • Synopsis – how much of each type of fibre I have used – for both clothing and furnishing
  • A break down by year – 2015 to 2019
  • What I started with
  • Know your fibres
  • Other terms used
  • The fair share project

Synopsis

Fair Share fabric weights updates

In 2015 I pledged to  use no more than my fair global share of fibres.

How Much

However there can be little doubt that we in the UK are consuming fibres in a hugely unsustainable way.
Heres how many textile fibres are produced annually: Total fibres, both natural & synthetic, around 8.5 million tonnes Rough calculations suggest that the average amount of fibres per annum, per person in the world, works out at 11.74 kg.

Global share 11.74 kg per person
of which 3.8 kg is natural fibres.
The rest is synthetics.
As I don’t like synthetics I try to stick to 3.8 kg of natural fibres.
Just so you know a kingsize double duvet cover from Ikea weighs in at 991 grams and a Marks & Spencer short-sleeved tee-shirt is 156 grams.

2015 

Natural fibres 3103 used of 3800 allowance – under by 697g Synthetic 3.2 kg

2016 

  • Natural fibres  4240 used of 3800  – over by 440g  (The running total for both years sees me under by 257g)
  • Synthetic 318g  (running total 3518)
  • Regenerated 45  (running total 45)

2017  

  • Natural fibres 3920 used of 3800 allowance – over by 120g (The running total for all years sees me under by 137g)
  • Synthetic 609  (running total 4127)
  • Regenerated 224  (running total  269)

2018 

  • Natural fibres 2915 used of 3800 allowance – under by 885g
  • (The running total for all years sees me under by 1022g)
  • Synthetic 0  (running total 4127)
  • Regenerated 0 (running total 269 )

2019

Natural fibres 5096.5 used of 3800 allowance – over by 1296 (The running total for all years sees me over by -274g)

Synthetics 1125 (running total 5252)

So up until 2020 and the van insulation even with buying bedding I can keep to the 3.8 kg target. However…….

By Year Breakdown

2019

This year I bought a wooden duvet and bedding  that I didn’t really need. Both were to trial. The review will be forthcoming. But this did of course up my total for this year.

Natural

Homemade

  • Grey dress homemade 366 

Bought

  • Mostly Natural but bought always includes some synthetic fibres – see proviso
  • 2 Cotton Bras from matalan 124
  • Knickers 3pairs 80
  • socks silk 31
  • Linen pants spain 364
  • Coduroy pinafore 403
  • Cardigan merino 183
  • White tee shirt Spain 121
  • Grey linen shirt gifted 187
  • Duvet cover bought 2 for the van divide by two 991
  • Orange cushion cover bought 2 for the van (divide by 2) 129
  • Pillow cases 2 light grey (divide by two) 126
  • Orange cushion cover bought 2 for the van (divide by 2) 129
  • Pillow cases 2 dark grey (divide by two) 126
  • Woolen duvet light 2500 (divide by two) 1250

Synthetics 

Rucksack

Large 44-litre capacity makes it possible to fly without checking in baggage to the hold. Lightweight yet durable design 0.7kg (1.5lbs).

Puffa jacket 200g (approx?) synthetic fabric and ?? feathers

I do wonder if you can make your own. Heres a link to someone who has DIY Puffer Jacket

Raincoat in a bag

we wanted waterproofs that were small and easily carried in our hand luggage rucksacks. bought these cheap as chips synthetics. Fabric: Breathable and waterproof nonwoven polypropylene. Weight: 220g

2018

Home made

  • liberty sleeveless made from yellow fabric I bought in India 175
  • Shorts blue weave from Japanese cotton 142
  • thin cotton shorts home made 136 
  • Shorts blue weave from Japanese cotton 142
  • thin cotton shorts home made 136
  • Cardigan knitted from Shetland wool 315

Bought

  • pyjamas Bottoms 212
  • pyjamas top 203
  • Jeans from M&S 619 Contain elasticine
  • Bali dress. A very light weight cotton grey dress 230
  • merino jumper. Great to wear but has gone way too bobbly 220
  • long sleeve top contains elastine – present 158
  • long sleeve top contains elastine – present 158
  • poll tax tee shirt 132
  • Indian kurta top. Bought this Mumbai India 215

2017

I needed warm as were were spending January in Spain. Contrary to popular opinion it can get very cold. Despite this the houses are not built for the cold and what with the tiled floors and wall and high ceilings can get pretty uncomfortable. can Warm lounge wear is the order of the day.

Then we went backpacking from India to Indonesia. Where yoga pants were the order of the day.

Clothes

Home made

  • Billy Bunter shorts 168
  • grey silk wool mix trousers 275 Palazzos
  • Liberty dress 218
  • Heavy silk sleevless  over tunic 245
  • Woolen 3/4 sleeve long tunic 293 MuMu Two

Clothes

Bought

  • Knickers 6 pairs 157
  • japanese socks 59
  • Brown shorts Malaysia 257
  • green skinny fit trousers  3% Elasticine 357
  • My cardigan is falling apart so I bought a new cotton cardigan from TK max Pure cotton it weighs in at 187 g
  • Girl gang tee shirt bought in Malaysia 159
  • Khaki tee shirt bought in Malaysia 155
  • PARIS tee shirt bought in Malaysia 165
  • Soul mate vest 148
  • Striped T shirt bought in Malaysia 134
  • My sarong weighs in at 212 g From Indonesia pure cotton very thin very beautiful. 212
  • cashmere pyjamas weigh in at 517 g
  • Towels from japan 214

regenerated

  • Yoga leggings Parkinson’s 224 Viscose 224

synthetic

  • crop top for yoga x 2 153
  • japanese socks 59
  • Grey rain coat
  • japanese hat 100
  • synthtic straw hat 100
  • Bikini top blue 97
  • Bikini top Decathalon 100
  • BikiniM&S 200
  • Leggings Bought in Ubud 222

2016

Returned home from backpacking the tropics. The days of 2 teeshirts, a mu-mu of modersty and backpackers bloomers were sadly over. I desperately needed some new clothes. The next three weeks saw me busy sewing. The design brief was a little more complex this year. Not only did the clothes have to be sustainable & plastic free, they had to be rather more dressy than I am used to. because at Easter we were fulfilling a long held dream – to be in Seville for the Santa Semana and the Feria. Then back to rather less showy Huddersfield for what I thought was going to be a hot summer. There were a couple of hot and steamy weeks I sewed sleeveless frocks and cool skirts. Then the weather turned obvs! so I had to quickly put together some rather warmer shirts. And buy some T shirts to wear under them.

Had hoped to be back on the road by winter but it was not to be so I had to make a thick skirt that I can wear with wooly tights and leggings.

  • 1 wool socks homemade 73g 73
  • socks from Debenhams 45
  • socks from Debenhams 45
  • Denim Long Shorts 316g 316
  • Linen Pants 414g 414
  • Corduroy Skirt 300g 300
  • stripy cotton skirt gifted 231g 231
  • The Bombazine Skirt 541g 541
  • Wrap Skirt 249g 249
  • Tabbard Frock 149g
  • Ebay Woolen jacket 180
  • Choir Boy grey smock top 132
  • Liberty Lawn Shirt red poppies 96g
  • Offset Tunic blue & white 157g
  • Vogue lawn top cross bodice 110g
  • Wrap shirt  108g
  • Wrap Shirt Lawn Chiffon 90
  • 3/4 sleeve T 156g each 156
  • 3/4 sleeve T 156g each 156
  • New spotty top from M&S 160g 160
  • Black vest gifted turned into seat cover for the van 144
  • grey vest 105g
  • White vest gifted 105g
  • Yorkshire Wool Waistcoat 178g

Regenerated Fibres

Bamboo is a regenerated fibre and falls somewhere between natural and synthetcic. Some biodegradae some do not. Bamboo is a form of regenerated fibre. Personally I dont like it but the socks were a gift. Read more here 

1 ankle socks bamboo skull & crossbones 45g

Synthetic Fibres

  • Huge circular skirt 243g
  • New Swim Top 75g
  • Total 318g

2015

3103 Total 3800 Allowance – Under 697 3.2 kg of synthetic fibres.

Got home and parked the van ( after living in it for a year) We left the U.K. in May and travelled from Kazakhstan to Indonesia. Mostly overland only flying when there was no alternative to places where the ferries no longer run – sigh.

My clothes had to see me through monsoon, snow and blazing tropical heat. I made most of my backpacking wardrobe before I left. Being on the road doesnt mean I can’t sew. I made my headscarf and backpackers bloomers while traveling.

Natural Fibres

  • 1 pair of knickers 28
  • Cashmere cardigan gifted 220
  • Blue teeshirt cotton gifted 226
  • Teeshirt from Thailand – cotton 123
  • Cotton Hat 2 20 
  • 1 scarf 7 
  • Flannel  7 
  • Sheet and pillowcase from srilanka 940 

Made

  • Synthetic Fibres
  • Ridiculous coat  and a new raincoat to replace it.Synthetic Fibres
  • leggings Synthetic Fibres
  • Crop top

2014 – what I started with

  • Bought
  • knickers
  • 2 pairs of trousers
  • 1 nightie
  • 1 Bra
  • Had
  • Tops, Cardigans & Jackets
  • 4 no Long Sleeve Tops – cotton
  • 1 grey – 2010
  • 1 striped – 2009
  • 1 blue – 2011
  • 1 red – 2014 year
  • Ranging from 5 to 3 years old except the red which was bought last year.
  • 6 no T Shirts & Vests – cotton (10)
  • 1 grey – had for ever.
  • Marks & Sparks 2014 156g each – no hangers
  • 1 black
  • 1 navy
  • 1 pale grey
  • 1 vest – years plus
  • 2 no Other (12)
  • wool tunic that I made from woolen fabric I have had for years. I have been wearing that for 18 months? Possibly longer.
  • Cotton shirt bought in India 2011
  • 2 no Warmer wear & Coats (14)
  • 1 synthetic jacket pre 2011
  • 1 nylon raincoat pre 2011
  • 4 no. Bottoms (18)
  • Shorts Summer 2014 Synthetic Fibres
  • Trackie bums cotton don’t know how old – over a year.
  • Thin long trews hot thin cotton bought Summer 2014
  • Thick long trews cold corduroy Autumn 2014 Marks & Spencers
  • 1 no Skirts & Dresses (19)
  • Linen dress made for Observer Awards 2014
  • Underwear & Sleep
  • Knickers (20)
  • I have counted knickers as one because for some reason I feel shy about telling you how many pairs of pants I own!?
  • Philippino pirate pants
  • M&S sometime last year
  • France 2014 a pack of knickers
  • 2 no Bras (21)
  • 1 reasonable bought spring 2014 synthetic fibres
  • 1 utterly awful that I only wear when the reasonable one is in the wash. At least 2 years old
  • 4 no Socks (25)
  • 2 thin pairs of socks – new before we left – gift.
  • 2 thick pairs of sock – made by my mum.
  • 5 no Sleep & Swim (32)
  • 1 nightgowns warm
  • 1 nightgown cool 2014 M&S
  • 1 Merino long johns 3 years at least
  • 2 bikinis years old– all synthetic
  • Towelling dressing gown
  • thin cotton dressing gown
  • 7 no Outerwear Hats & Shawls (39)
  • 1 wool hat 2013
  • 1 straw hat 2014
  • 1 wool scarf gift 2013
  • 3 pairs of gloves
  • 1 no shawl
  • 2 no Work in progress (41)
  • Spotty dress work in progress bought from charity shop
  • Sleeveless long vest / sleeveless tunic most cotton bought in Malaysia 2011
  • 4 no In storage (The cupboard we don’t talk about) (46)
  • Coats
  • 1 smart – wool years old
  • 1 very warm sheepskin second hand ages ago
  • 2 waterproof  walking coat- synthetic years old
  • 1 raincoat – synthetic cant even remember when
  • Other fabrics
  • back packers flannel

Clothes that have died

I had to buy a new raincoat to replace the stupid, non-weatherproof rubbish I got from T.K.Max.

1 blue patterned Teeshirt. Bought 2013 Singapore lost by the laundry in 2015 Thailand

Cotton Cargo Pants bought Summer 2014 Mountain Warehouse- dreadful purchase fell apart in less than a year.

Corduroy Trouser bought autumn 2014 Marks & Spencers worn almost continually in the autumn and winter of 2015. Died in the Spring of 2015 in China. Not exactly long lasting but one shouldn’t expect too much from corduroy and they did get worn a lot!

Fabric Types

Dont know regenerated yarn from a synthetic fibre? no worries. Theres lots of information on fibres yarns and fabric HERE

Terms
By gifted I mean something that people have passed on to me because they no longer want it. Second hand but not purchased.
When I say cotton/ natural fibres that doesn’t include buttons and other such stuff which will almost certainly be synthetic. As might be the thread used to sew the fabric.
Unless you are talking about my own homemade clothes where I can tell you exactly what plastic has been used.

Sewing
I can’t afford to buy eco clothing but I can afford to make it. I have been stiching like a demon and this year most of my new clothes have been handmade. Sadly my sewing skills are not so great. There are some rather strange outfits in there. You can read my plastic free sewing tips here…

About Fair Share

Whats a global share?

Rough calculations would suggest that the average amount of fibres per annum, for every person in the world, works out at 11.74 kg per person This is for everything – clothes, bedding, fabrics used in manufacturing, furnishings, businesses. All our fabric needs.
of which 3.8 kg is natural fibres.
As I don’t like synthetics I try to stick to 3.8 kg of natural fibres.
Just so you know a kingsize double duvet cover from Ikea weighs in at 991 grams and a Marks & Spencer short-sleeved tee-shirt is 156 grams.

Why not use 11 .74 kg of natural fibres? I would argue that it is not sustainable for us all to have 11.74 kg of natural fibres a year. This is one of the promoted benefits of plastic, that it takes the pressure off natural resources. Synthetic fabrics mean less land grab to grow cotton. But synthetic fabrics like any other plastic are massively polluting.

So if we cannot produce more, we have to consume less.  This is how the equation works for me:
We cannot exceed current levels of production:
We cannot expect others to want less than we have:
We cannot swamp the market with synthetics:
Therefore I have to live with my global share of natural fibres.Which is still probably to generous to be fully sustainable.

You can read more on the subject and check my figures and sources here.

Whats Sustainable Clothing?
Plastic-free, fair-trade, ethically made and lots more.You can read my clothing manifesto here
You can read more on the subject and check my figures and sources here.

Second Hand Clothes
Can I buy or accept second hand clothes to supplement my allowance? No. I can buy second-hand but it has to count as part of my allowance.
Unless they are from someone else participating in the scheme like Ami.

Read more here

Related Posts

More About Fabric

  • Lots of outrageous textile statistics HERE
  • This is an introduction to fibres, fabrics and why you might want to, and how to sew plastic free index
  • See all textile & wardrobe related posts HERE.

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Tana Lawn Tunic

by Posted in 3.1.7 wear Tagged ,

I didn’t actually need another tunic top but I have been possessed by a sewing demon and I simply cannot stop buying fabric especially when I came across this.
Liberty Tata Lawn.
It was in Abakan a Manchester fabric shops At first I thought it was some strange kind of silk. Maybe even a synthetic fibre. It was so fine and was covered in lovely design of what looked like pomegranates.
Abakan is a rather grim no nonsense shop which sell huge heaps of synthetic fabric by weight. For sure they have a small craft fabric department but since the disaster of the endlessly creasing Tabard Dress I am right off craft fabric. To find something so lovely and so obviously suitable for shirts was rather a shock.Which led to a quick bit of research.

Liberty Prints & Fabrics

I can tell you that Liberty is an amazing fabric shop in London. But also a huge part of British design history. In 1875 Arthur Lasenby Liberty  opened Libertys the shop selling ornaments, fabrics and objets d’art from the east. By 1884 Edward William Godwin  a distinguished architect joined the team and Liberty’s started making clothes. By the 1890s Arthur was working with English designers connected with the  Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau movement and his fabric designs had become massively popular. In the 1920s, Liberty began to produce small floral prints known as Liberty Prints. They were printed on one of their most famous fabrics Tana Lawn, still a Liberty best-seller.
In 1924 the mock-Tudor flag ship store store was built. It was designed by Edwin T. Hall it used, timbers from HMS Hindustan and HMS Impregnable. In proper Arts and Crafts style it was built using authentic and original Tudor techniques.
By the 1940s Liberty was firmly established as the supplier of must-have silk scarves.
Come the 1950s and 60s, an Arts & Crafts revival meant even Libertys old designs were still cutting edge. Art Nouveau designs were redrawn and coloured to make them more appealing to modern designers. They were used by all the great names.
But back to me and my fabric revelation.

Tana Lawn

is extremely high quality cotton. This was taken form the Liberty website….
Taking its name from Lake Tana in East Africa where the original cotton grew, Tana Lawn cotton is unique. Made from specially selected ultra-fine long staple cotton and finished without the use of crease-resisting chemicals or irritating allergens, the result is a famous masterpiece of fabric technology: fine, cool, comfortable and durable, with brilliant reproduction of colours and prints.

Fabric & Purchase Details 

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While Abakan might be a little bit grim they  sell at a discount. Tana lawn normally retails at around £22.00 a meter I got mine for 12.00. If you cant get to Manchester they have an online store. They don’t stock the whole Tana range – for that you will have to try Liberty or other shops.

As far as I know Tana Lawn boasts no organic or fair trade credentials but it was bought locally from Abakan in Manchester and buying locally and keeping fabric shops open are both very important to me.

It is 100% cotton. I prefer to use natural fibres because on consideration they are the greenest, biodegradable option and, even better, they don’t shed plastic microfibres when washed. Just in case you need it, here is a quick  intro to synthetic, regenerated, combination and natural fibres here. And more reasons why I prefer natural fabrics over the others can be found here.

Design & Pattern
McCalls M6102 1 hour dress. Really easy. You can see my patterns here.

Fixtures & Fittings
None needed

Made With
It was  cut out with all metal scissors from the C. Booths Hardware Shop in Huddersfield, sewn together using organic cotton on a wooden reel and made using plastic free sewing supplies (you can find them here).

Sustainable Rating
Natural fibres
Fabric was bought plastic free – no packaging
Supporting a local fabric shop
Homemade by me
Made with plastic free sewing supplies

Weighs In At g.

Why the weighing? Well this item of clothing is counted as part of my fair share fabrics project. This is a self imposed rationing system. I use no more than my global share of fibres and they have to be sustainably sourced. Whats a global share? 11.74 kg per person of which 3.8 kg is natural fibres. As I don’t like synthetics I try to stick to 3.8 kg of natural fibres.

More

 

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Choir Boy Shirt

by Posted in 3.1.7 wear Tagged ,

I have been making cotton tunics for a while now and while I love this very easy to make garment I fancied a change. I OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAwanted something with rather more space to move. The tunic pattern has fitted sleeves which can be a bit grabby under the arms if I wear them with a T shirt. Plus the body while not fitted has no extra space. I have to be careful when removing my tunics. I am not always careful tending to yank them off to the cracking sound of splitting stitches.

So I thought I would try me a gathered shirt with some raglan sleeves. A raglan sleeve is a single piece of fabric that extends from the collar of the garment over the shoulder and down to the underarm.

There is no seam around the shoulder rather that the seams attaching the sleeve to body run diagonally across the front and back of the shoulder. This results is more room in the underarm area allowing a greater ease of movement. Which is why it is often used in sports wear. And considered less formal than a fitted sleeve.

Fabric & Purchase Details

I bought some grey lawn from the Button Box in Huddersfield Market. This is more like a muslin it is softer more crumply and looks like a looser weave. I don’t know where it was originally made and it boasts no organic or fair trade credentials but it was bought locally and buying locally and keeping fabric shops open are both very important to me.

It is 100% cotton. I prefer to use natural fibres because on consideration they are the greenest, biodegradable option and, even better, they don’t shed plastic microfibres when washed. Just in case you need it, here is a quick  intro to synthetic, regenerated, combination and natural fibres here. And more reasons why I prefer natural fabrics over the others can be found here.

Design & Pattern

I found this pattern in a charity shop. New Look 6133.  It seemed to fit the bill give or take a frilled collar. I made it longer so it was more smock like. I cut the neck lower  and rather than a draw string, I  gathered the fabric and sewed it into place and attached a thin collar.

I tried it on. I looked like a choir boy!

I had to add pin tucks underneath the bust to give it some shape. Then rather than gather into cuffs I added pin tucks to the billowing sleeves to give them some shape too.

Fixtures & Fittings
Needs none

Made With
Cut out with all metal scissors from the C. Booths Hardware Shop in Huddersfield, sewn together using organic cotton on a wooden reel and made using plastic free sewing supplies (you can find them here).

Sustainable Rating
Natural fibres
Fabric was bought plastic free – no packaging
Supporting a local fabric shop
Homemade by me
Made with plastic free sewing supplies

Weighs In At 132g.

Why the weighing? Well this item of clothing is counted as part of my fair share fabrics project. This is a self imposed rationing system. I use no more than my global share of fibres and they have to be sustainably sourced. Whats a global share? 11.74 kg per person of which 3.8 kg is natural fibres. As I don’t like synthetics I try to stick to 3.8 kg of natural fibres.

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Clothing Homemade A line skirt

by Posted in 3.1.7 wear Tagged ,

A sensible, deep blue, below the knee A line skirt. I wear it with leggings or tights. Yes it sounds dreadful but it’s good for cycling in. I made it from a soft corduroy which I think stops it looking like too much like a school skirt. While it really is much nicer than the description implies even kindest friends would class it under practical rather than glamorous

Fabric & Purchase Details

I dont know where the corduroy was originally from and it boasts no organic or fair trade credentials but it was bought from my local fabric shop Leons. And buying locally and keeping fabric shops open are both very important to me.

It is 100% cotton. I prefer to use natural fibres because on consideration they are the greenest, biodegradable option and, even better, they don’t shed plastic microfibres when washed. Just in case you need it, here is a quick  intro to synthetic, regenerated, combination and natural fibres here. And more reasons why I prefer natural fabrics over the others can be found here.

Design & Pattern

I used the Mc Calls M6770 Misses’ Jacket, Bustle/Capelet, Skirt and Pants patterns as a very loose guide. The Mc Calls pattern features a bustle. My corduroy skirt doesn’t!

Fixtures & Fittings

I didnt bother with a waistband just turned the top over and fixed it using used bias binding. This is 100% cotton, bought by the meter and from a cardboard roll. I fitted a zip at the back The zip is metal and synthetic fibre. It is sold unpackaged. N.B.metal zips are not so easy to fit as plastic as they are bulky, dont sit as neatly in the seam and tend to flash and glint. Plastic zips are finer and so less obvious. As I always wear long tunic tops it is not an issue for me but you might want to consider it.

Made With

They were  cut out with all metal scissors from the C. Booths Hardware Shop in Huddersfield, sewn together using organic cotton on a wooden reel and made using plastic free sewing supplies (you can find them here).

Sustainable Rating
Natural fibres
Fabric was bought plastic free – no packaging
Supporting a local fabric shop
Homemade by me
Made with plastic free sewing supplies

Weighs In At 300g.

Why the weighing? Well this item of clothing is counted as part of my fair share fabrics project. This is a self imposed rationing system. I use no more than my global share of fibres and they have to be sustainably sourced. Whats a global share? 11.74 kg per person of which 3.8 kg is natural fibres. As I don’t like synthetics I try to stick to 3.8 kg of natural fibres.

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Clothing Homemade Denim 3/4 length

by Posted in 3.1.7 wear Tagged , , 1 Comment

No Daisy Dukes for me! Check out these bad boys! Below the knee, denim shorts with half gather waist. Made for when the weather was warmer only posted now!

Fabric & Purchase Details

I don’t know where the denim was originally made and it boasts no organic or fair trade credentials but it was bought locally from the Button Box in Huddersfield Market. And buying locally and keeping fabric shops open are both very important to me.

It is 100% cotton. I prefer to use natural fibres because on consideration they are the greenest, biodegradable option and, even better, they don’t shed plastic microfibres when washed. Just in case you need it, here is a quick  intro to synthetic, regenerated, combination and natural fibres here. And more reasons why I prefer natural fabrics over the others can be found here.

Design & Pattern

I thought I could adapt the Palazzo Trouser pattern I have already used for the Linen Trousers. I still wanted to use a drawstring waist (no plastic elastic for me!), but didn’t want them to be quite as gathered. The denim is much thicker than the linen so doesn’t gather as easily. I didn’t want to end up with crinoline style shorts.

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Shorts hanging in festoons?

I narrowed the legs of the pants and added darts at the back waist to make a more fitted butt. This means only the front is gathered. The bum bit works well and is a comfortable fit… but the back of the pants have a tendency to hang in festoons? It doesn’t really matter and they might soften out with washing but for my next attempt at trousers I will try a different, proper pattern rather than adapting one.

Fixtures & Fittings
Plastic free drawstring fixing.

Made With
They were  cut out with all metal scissors from the C. Booths Hardware Shop in Huddersfield, sewn together using organic cotton on a wooden reel and made using plastic free sewing supplies (you can find them here).

Sustainable Rating
Natural fibres
Fabric was bought plastic free – no packaging
Supporting a local fabric shop
Homemade by me
Made with plastic free sewing supplies

Weighs In At 414g.

Why the weighing? Well this item of clothing is counted as part of my fair share fabrics project. This is a self imposed rationing system. I use no more than my global share of fibres and they have to be sustainably sourced. Whats a global share? 11.74 kg per person of which 3.8 kg is natural fibres. As I don’t like synthetics I try to stick to 3.8 kg of natural fibres.

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Tabbard Tunic Top

by Posted in 3.1.7 wear Tagged , , 1 Comment

This is a simple sleeveless dress with bust darts to add a bit of shape. It looks rather like those old pinafores people used to wear hence the name.

kate

It is easy to wear – either as a comfortable tunic when worn over a tee shirt and leggings or a cool dress for those hotter days. This Summer I hardly need say I have been wearing it as a tunic, over leggings, with a cardigan!

I bought this material locally from the Button Box in Huddersfield Market.  . It is 100% cotton.

Notes On This Cotton – Craft Fabric

I would be very pleased with it if it wasn’t for the fabric…..

It is a silky fabric that creases easily. I mean really easily. I wear it for seconds and it looks like crumpled paper. I am not sure it is a dress making fabric. It was sold in small bales folded on a cardboard board. In a section of the shop called craft fabrics. I think they are mainly used for patchwork and quilting. Is this cotton somehow different?  Rose & Hubble fabrics are sold the same way and the stuff I used for my loon pants worked out fie.  I thought with washing it would soften it as has happened with my loon pants. These are made out of Rose & Hubble cotton. They are now so soft I don’t need to iron them. Actually I never ironed them and while they looked rumpled I could get away with it. Not a chance of that with this top! Still as stiff as a board, needs ironing before I can wear it. Even with my low sartorial standard I feel I have to do at least that. Once on, it creases immediately.

As time has passed it’s tendency to crease has annoyed me more and more. As has the constant ironing.

Pattern New Look 6558

Sustainable Rating

  • Natural fibres
  • Fabric was bought plastic free – no packaging
  • Supporting a local fabric shop
  • Homemade by me

Weighs In At 149 grams

Why the weighing

As an experiment, in 2015, I pledged to use no more than my fair global share of fibres This is a self imposed rationing system. I use no more than my global share of fibres and they have to be sustainably sourced. What’s a global share? Share out all the fibres made by all the people on the planet and it works out, (very roughly), 11.74 kg per person of which 3.8 kg is natural fibres. As I don’t like synthetics I try to stick to 3.8 kg of natural fibres.

Why Natural Fibres?

I prefer to use natural fibres because on consideration they are the greenest, biodegradable option and, even better, they don’t shed plastic microfibres when washed.

Just in case you need it, here is a quick  intro to synthetic, regenerated, combination and natural fibres here. And more reasons why I prefer natural fabrics over the others can be found here.

How to Sew

Here is an introduction to why you might want to, and how you can, start sewing plastic free. Plus all my  sewing projects to date. Read More

  • N.B.
    lines changes, products get removed. For more information why not ask the Plastic Is Rubbish FB group for updates. They are a great source of tidbits, personal experience and the latest news. Why not join them and share the plastic free love x
Join our Facebook group here
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Clothing Homemade Offset Tunic

by Posted in 3.1.7 wear Tagged , 3 Comments

Bought some lovely organic cotton cambric from Offset Warehouse an online fabric store that sell greener than green fabrics.

Such as this lovely patterned cambric that is

  1. made from organic (uncertified) cotton
  2. hand woven and printed by hand using wooden “hand-blocks”.
  3. The dyes used in the printing are azo-free
  4. The weaving and printing is done in a cooperative and certified Fair Trade by the WFTO.
  5. As it is a hand-made product, the process uses virtually no energy or water!
  6. can be washed in washing machines.

I prefer to use natural fibres because on consideration they are the greenest option, they don’t shed plastic microfibres when washed and, even better, at the end of a long and useful life, I can compost them.

Just in case you need it, here is a quick  intro to synthetic, regenerated, combination and natural fibres here. And the reasons why I prefer natural fabrics over the others can be found in detail here.

More Information

Weave/Knit Type Plain, Woven
Thread Count 46 x 46
width 119cm 47″

Packaging

I had been assured that the packaging was plastic free and it almost was. The fabric came wrapped in tissue paper in a cardboard box but the box was sealed with plastic tape and the invoice was attached to the front in a plastic bag. Sigh!

Pattern

McCalls M6102 1 hour dress. Really easy

Fixtures & Fittings

No fixings needed.

It was cut out with all metal scissors from the C. Booths Hardware Shop in Huddersfield, sewn together using organic cotton on a wooden reel and made using plastic free sewing supplies  (you can find them here).

Sustainable Rating

  • Natural fibres
  • Organic
  • Fair-trade
  • Homemade by me
  • Made with plastic free sewing supplies

Weighs In

At 157g.

Why the weighing? Well this item of clothing is counted as part of my fair share fabrics project. This is a self imposed rationing system. I use no more than my global share of fibres and they have to be sustainably sourced. Whats a global share? Share out all the fibres made by all the people on the planet and it works out, (very roughly), at 11.74 kg per person of which 3.8 kg is natural fibres. As I don’t like synthetics I try to stick to my fair share of 3.8 kg of natural fibres. Here are the figures in full.

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About this fabric

Vasanta Fairtrade Cambric
A beautiful light blue print on a smooth, clean white base. The design is printed by hand using wooden “hand-blocks”. The dyes are totally ironable and colourfast (although we always recommend washing your fabrics before you make) and the fabric can be washed in washing machines.

Originally from India, the ethnic print has a rustic, authentic and unique quality to it.  It is a fabric that will transend seasons and works in both fashion and interiors. This is a heavier, cambric weight, so ideal for lightweight clothing, and semi sheer soft furnishings. It’s a little transparent against darker colours, so would recommend lining if the material is used for clothing.

Due to the hand-woven style of this fabric, it may contain some small weaving irregularities, but this adds to its rustic appearance and doesn’t affect the look or quality. The dyes are azo-free and the cotton is organic and totally biodegradable. The weaving and printing is done in a cooperative and certified Fair Trade by the WFTO. As it is a hand-made product, the process uses virtually no energy or water!

Limited Availability – Once this fabric has sold out it will be wholesale only, with a minimum of 80 metres and a lead time of approximately 8 weeks
Product Name

Textile Index more clothes, more links and more information.

  • Whats counts as sustainable – read our clothing manifesto
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    The Fulsome Foolish Skirt

    by Posted in 3.1.7 wear, 4.3 My Projects Tagged , ,

    We were planning to visit Seville for the Feria, the big flamenco party. To say it is dreey would be understating. I spent a lot of time wondering what I could possibly wear. The flamenco dresses I had seen looked very elaborate featuring different fabrics, trimmings and all manner frou-frouery. Needless to say I possessed nothing like that. Then, while meandering through the Indonesian markets, I came across some very lively sarongs. They were highly patterned strips of fabric featuring a bold use of color and frantic patterning. If, I thought, I was to make a skirt out of such sarongs, it would look extremely ornate. Not frilly but with a general air of exuberance that would make it suitable for a flamenco night out.

    So I bought some. They were amazingly cheap but I was assured they were made from Indonesian cotton. They are not. They are synthetic fibres. I didn’t realize this till I got home, tried to iron them and they melted. I was annoyed. Not only did I have to spend hours scraping away at the iron but I don’t like wearing synthetic fabrics. I’m sure you know that synthetic fibres contribute to micro plastic pollution. When they are washed, they shed tiny, non-biodegradable, synthetic fibres into the drains. These are then washed out to sea where they are now polluting the oceans and being eaten by plankton.

    Still I thought I could still make the skirt, wear it for the Feria, and never, ever wash it. After all how much demand would there be for such a lively skirt in my daily life? So I copied a pattern for a circular skirt from the internet, sewed it up and tried it on. It hung nicely but it was full…. very full. Draped over my Rubenesque curves it looked rather tent like – by which I mean a big top. It might have worked if I had made it from a different fabric. Something with less pattern and nicer colors. Lord knows what I was thinking but dominant tints were bottle green and aquamarine blue covered in hot pink and purple flowers. It looked funky in the market place as a sarong; it looked insane as a swirling skirt on a wide berthed middle aged woman. So much so I will not be featuring a photo of me modeling it.

    So I now have a huge and very ugly skirt which I can never wash and never wear. But as I can’t bear waste so I am keeping it as a permanent pattern for future huge skirts I may wish to make. In fact I used it as the base for my Japanese Fish Wrap Skirt.

    More

    Weight 243g. This counts as part of my fair share fabrics project– a self imposed rationing system where I use no more than my global share of fibres and they have to be sustainably sourced. Whats a global share? 11.74 kg per person of which 3.8 kg is natural fibres. As I don’t like synthetics I try to stick to 3.8 kg of natural fibres.

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    Creams & Lotions – Recipes

    by Posted in 3.1 General & Homemade, 3.1 Personal Tagged , , 1 Comment

    The following information is for guidance only. None of the following recipes or tips have not been tested on anyone other than me. I strongly advise you do your own research and proceed very carefully.

    Disclaimer

    Be aware of the risks of listening to someone who
    a) doesn’t have any training in this field,
    b) most of what they know comes from Google,
    That’s me I mean.

    If you want a better informed opinion I suggest you head on over to the Aromantics website. They will sell you everything you need to make sun tan lotion including recipes you can download as a PDF. They have been in this game for years and are far more qualified then I am.
    The following is an account of my own experiences which may help you in your own research.

    It is so easy to make your own creams and lotion that once you start you will never look back. The advantages are huge; you get to control what goes on your skin, be way more eco-friendly and save a whole load of cash. You can make almost anything the cosmetic companies sell but without the palm oil, dodgy chemicals and weird colours. Though you can have all those too if you want.

    Lotion and cream is basically a mix of oills,waxes or butters with water combined using an emulsifier. Lotions are thinner, cream more solid.

    Do you really need to make a cream? Many times you can use an oil or butter neat. But sometimes they are just too oily.

    Many commercial creams including E45 use mineral oil. That’s derived from the same gloopy black oil we use to make petrol.

    ingredients

    To make cream or lotion you will need

    Oil, butters & waxes.
    There are hundreds of vegetable oils. Different skins like different oils and you will have to experiment to find what is best for you. Generally speaking the richer the oil the heavier the cream, the more water you put in the lighter the lotion. There are hundreds of vegetable oils. Different skins like different oils and you will have to experiment to find what is best for you.  See my guide to oils here.

    Water
    There is much talk of using distilled water but I use tap.

    Cooking thermometer
    VERY useful .

    Emulsifiers:
    Water and fat do not naturally mix, you need to use an emulsifier.You have to add other ingredients to turn what is basically salad dressing into lovely thick cream. So in addition to oils and water you will need an emulsifier.

    Notes On Emulsifiers

    The most complex ingredient in cream is the emulsifier. The water and oils are simple enough but this is what makes them bind together.

    There are a few completely natural emulsifiers  but they  do not give consistent results.
    Most commercially used emulsifiers are manufactured. They are most often derived from coconut oil and palm oil. More recently, rapeseed has been used.
    But some are produced from pig fats. Check what you buy.
    I have tried a few with varied success BUT
    A combination of VE Emulsifier, MF Emulsifier and Cetearyl Alcohol works every time and can be used to make a wide range of products from thick creams to thin lotions.

    VE Emulsifier or Glyceryl Stearate is a vegetable-based emulsifier
    Cetearyl Alcohol is a vegetable based emulsifying wax
    MF Emulsifier or Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate  can be fermented from lactose (milk sugar)but more commonly comes  from nondairy sources such as cornstarch, potatoes and molasses.


    Palm Oil
    Please note that all the above also may be derived from or include palm oil. Be sure to buy from a good practice supplier. For example there should be something this note on Aromantics VE emulsifier “The Palm oil that is used in both in MF/VE emulsifiers comes from suppliers that are either members of the Round Table of Sustainable Palm Oil or a subsidiary company or who are members of FEDIOL which supports sustainability. FEDIOL is a European industry federation based in Brussels”.
    You can read more about palm oil here.

    Preservatives

    Optional?

    Oil on its own does not go off – there is no water for bacterial to feed on. Once you have added water to oil then it can. Now your creams are vulnerable to bacteria. Preservatives will help “keep” your cream. I don’t use it as it can cause skin irritations. And I find cream without I less itchy on my skin. I have had a few pots of cream go mouldy but we are talking maybe 5 in the years I have been making my own creams. You can read up and buy preservatives here Aromantics

    However there is a growing movement on the internet that insist the bacteria that could grow in your creams could be harmful if spread on the skin. Obviously bacteria can grow in your cream  which is why preservatives are added. Without preservatives your cream might have a shorter shelf lie.  As to wether it is harmful I cant find any actual research linking cream to infection but i suggest you research more.

    For me being able to use moisturiser that doesn’t make my skin flare up is a worthwhile risk. However I do store it in the fridge and use a clean spoon each time to scoop some out. 

    Pots
    to put your cream in.

    Process

    Heat the Fat Stage ingredients in a double boiler (or a metal pot on hot water) until above 75°C. Use a thermometer to check.

    Boil the water add the MF emulsifier and other Water Stage ingredients to 75°C.

    Take off heat. Now pour the Fat Stage into the Water Stage in a slow steady stream before they drop below 75°C.

    Mix well – I use a hand blender.

    Allow to cool. Whisk occasionally to achieve a nice creamy consistency. As the mixture cools it becomes thicker and more creamy. It will reach its thickest consistency when it has cooled down to room temperature.

    When the temperature is below 40°C you can add active ingredients
    perfumes or essential oils and other magical things to make you look years younger.

    You can also add specialist ingredients to make for example sun tan lotion or self tan.

    Put the Cream into jars and label.

    Take Care

    That everything you use is clean, very clean.
    Make sure you have enough pots to store your cream in.
    That you label it – and date it. Believe me you will forget!

    Recipes & Kits

    Here are some sample recipes.

    Supermarket Cream (My recipe)

    You can buy all these ingredient from the supermarket.  I cut the olive oil with the lighter almond oil because I find it rather heavy.
    Makes One liter of cream – have a big pot ready!

    Fat Stage

    • 20g Cetyl Alcohol
    • 70ml Almond Oil Tesco’s or Asian Shop
    • 30ml Olive Oil
    • 20g coconut oil Tescos or Asian Shop
    • Water Stage
    • 800ml water
    • 40g MF emulsifier
    • Fancy Aromatics RecipeTo be honest I think this recipe has way to many ingredients but I like this company, I have used their products many times and think that this will probably make a nice cream. It is also useful to have a recipe that lists by percentages.You can experiment and use different oils, or even less oils. Just make sure the percentages stay the same. For example you can cut the thistle oil and use 10% Apricot Kernal Oil.

      By percentage
      Fat Stage (above 75°C)
      2% Cocoa Butter
      3% Macadamia Nut Oil
      7% Apricot Kernel Oil
      3% Thistle Oil
      2.5% VE Emulsifier
      2% Cetearyl Alcohol

      Water Stage (above 75°C)
      4.5% MF Emulsifier
      69% Boiling Spring Water
      2% Glycerine

      Third Stage (below 40°C)
      1% Preservative 12 or Eco
      1% Vitamin E Simulated Natural
      2% NFF Complex
      1% Essential Oils of your choice

      From Aromantics

      Rich Tropical Delights Cream (My recipe)

      Much easier far fewer ingredients. I cut the olive oil with Almond because I find it rather heavy.
      Makes One liter of cream – have a big pot ready!

      Fat Stage

    • 25 g VE Emulsifier
    • 20g Cetyl Alcohol
    • 70ml Almond Oil
    • 30ml Coconut Oil
    • 20g Shea butter
    • 10g Cocoa butter
    • Water Stage
    • 800ml water
    • 40g MF emulsifier
    • Design Your Own
      You can adapt the mix of oils for the above recipes based on your personal preference.
      If you want to design you own cream from scratch, follow these guidelines…
      style=”font-size: medium;”>Emulsifiers 5-8%
    • Oils 12-20%
    • Water, Additives, and Botanicals to 100 %.

    Trouble Shoot
    Cream too thick? You cannot add more water once the mixture has cooled. This ruins the cream – it will not rub in. You will need to make a thinner lotion and mix your creams to achieve the desired consistency. You can add more oil and mix well. This of course makes your cream more oily.

    Lotions

    If you want a thinner cream add more water at the water stage.

    Kits

    If this is your first time making lotions I can also recommend the Aromantics cream making starter pack from www.aromantic.co.uk  It comes with everything you need including, sadly, 30 little plastic pots to put it in. All the ingredients were wrapped in plastic bags as well. Hmmm. On the plus side, the cream is really easy to make and they send you several different recipes.

    Anti Aging, Sun Tan Lotion & Fake Bake
    You can add  specialist ingredients to your base to make for example sun tan lotion or self tan.

    Buy

    Aromantics is a good and ethical supplier of ingredients but expensive. I buy a lot of stuff in bulk from other suppliers. Ebay is a good source. Prices vary so do shop around.

    I store my creams in old jars but for display  I have bought some glass jars with metal lids.

    Plastic Spoiler

    Most plastic base ingredients come in plastic bags but I get huge amounts cream out of one small bag of ingredients so I consider it a worthwhile compromise.

    Making Personal Care Products 

    Its quicker then  trying to choose between a hundred different shampoos and it’s really simple, fun to do, so much cheaper  and  I get to control what goes on my  body, where it comes from and what environmental impact it has.

    Lots more info here on  toothpaste and other products  
    and making other stuff – here.

    Making creams while travelling

    You cannot carry a years supply of home made cream in your rucksack so here are some ideas about making your own home made creams in hotel bedrooms.

    Kits
    If this is your first time making lotions I can also recommend the Aromantics cream making starter pack from www.aromantic.co.uk  It comes with everything you need including, sadly, 30 little plastic pots to put it in. All the ingredients were wrapped in plastic bags as well. Hmmm. On the plus side, the cream is really easy to make and they send you several different recipes.