post

August

Welcome to our monthly round-up of news and products.

Yes I know its Summer but this month I am busy buying jumpers. There’s no trusting the British weather.

We update it as we go along so do check back for our latest finds. and you can subscribe to get our monthly updates delivered to your virtual door. There’s a subscription form at the bottom of the page.

You can see our past round ups here HERE.

So back to

Knitwear

My Woolovers cardigan has turned up. Hooray. A kitted hoodie. the best of all worlds.

I ordered from them because the garment is made from natural fibres and they send their cardigans out in almost plastic free packaging. 

The sealing  strip and some thread reinforcement on the top were the only plastic to be found on the outer paper bag. 

This was exciting enough but I opened it to see the cardigan itself packed in a degradable compostable cornstarch back. People will tell you that you cannot compose them in your garden composter. They are wrong I have composed of many of these bags. 

The label was cardboard and attached with string

The receipt, sadly, had a plastic liner attached. I don’t really know why. 

But on the whole a fantastic effort.

They also make a range of other environmental claims including

  1. We will ensure at least 95% of our collections are made from natural fibres.
  2. We will use more recycled yarns.
  3. We will replace our garment care labels & tickets with a natural alternative.
  4. Read all of them here

They sell other plastic free products. I got these tea lights in cardboard  a box. 

About

Langholm CapitalWoolOvers is a UK based direct-to-customer retailer of own-brand knitwear and jersey apparel. It was founded in 1989 and acquired by Langholm Capital in 2015.

My Wardrobe

More about fibres & clothes….

Check out the Wardrobe Index here with links to

post

Fairshare Fabrics All Years

Summary

In 2015 I pledged to  use no more than my fair global share of fibres and they had to be sustainably sourced. I was trying to determine what is a reasonable amount of clothing/furnishings.

In this post you will find information on the following

  • Synopsis – how much of each type of fibre I have used – for both clothing and furnishing
  • A break down by year – 2015 to 2019
  • What I started with
  • Know your fibres
  • Other terms used
  • The fair share project

Synopsis

Fair Share fabric weights updates

In 2015 I pledged to  use no more than my fair global share of fibres.

How Much

However there can be little doubt that we in the UK are consuming fibres in a hugely unsustainable way.
Heres how many textile fibres are produced annually: Total fibres, both natural & synthetic, around 8.5 million tonnes Rough calculations suggest that the average amount of fibres per annum, per person in the world, works out at 11.74 kg.

Global share 11.74 kg per person
of which 3.8 kg is natural fibres.
The rest is synthetics.
As I don’t like synthetics I try to stick to 3.8 kg of natural fibres.
Just so you know a kingsize double duvet cover from Ikea weighs in at 991 grams and a Marks & Spencer short-sleeved tee-shirt is 156 grams.

2015 

Natural fibres 3103 used of 3800 allowance – under by 697g Synthetic 3.2 kg

2016 

  • Natural fibres  4240 used of 3800  – over by 440g  (The running total for both years sees me under by 257g)
  • Synthetic 318g  (running total 3518)
  • Regenerated 45  (running total 45)

2017  

  • Natural fibres 3920 used of 3800 allowance – over by 120g (The running total for all years sees me under by 137g)
  • Synthetic 609  (running total 4127)
  • Regenerated 224  (running total  269)

2018 

  • Natural fibres 2915 used of 3800 allowance – under by 885g
  • (The running total for all years sees me under by 1022g)
  • Synthetic 0  (running total 4127)
  • Regenerated 0 (running total 269 )

2019

Natural fibres 5096.5 used of 3800 allowance – over by 1296 (The running total for all years sees me over by -274g)

Synthetics 1125 (running total 5252)

So up until 2020 and the van insulation even with buying bedding I can keep to the 3.8 kg target. However…….

By Year Breakdown

2019

This year I bought a wooden duvet and bedding  that I didn’t really need. Both were to trial. The review will be forthcoming. But this did of course up my total for this year.

Natural

Homemade

  • Grey dress homemade 366 

Bought

  • Mostly Natural but bought always includes some synthetic fibres – see proviso
  • 2 Cotton Bras from matalan 124
  • Knickers 3pairs 80
  • socks silk 31
  • Linen pants spain 364
  • Coduroy pinafore 403
  • Cardigan merino 183
  • White tee shirt Spain 121
  • Grey linen shirt gifted 187
  • Duvet cover bought 2 for the van divide by two 991
  • Orange cushion cover bought 2 for the van (divide by 2) 129
  • Pillow cases 2 light grey (divide by two) 126
  • Orange cushion cover bought 2 for the van (divide by 2) 129
  • Pillow cases 2 dark grey (divide by two) 126
  • Woolen duvet light 2500 (divide by two) 1250

Synthetics 

Rucksack

Large 44-litre capacity makes it possible to fly without checking in baggage to the hold. Lightweight yet durable design 0.7kg (1.5lbs).

Puffa jacket 200g (approx?) synthetic fabric and ?? feathers

I do wonder if you can make your own. Heres a link to someone who has DIY Puffer Jacket

Raincoat in a bag

we wanted waterproofs that were small and easily carried in our hand luggage rucksacks. bought these cheap as chips synthetics. Fabric: Breathable and waterproof nonwoven polypropylene. Weight: 220g

2018

Home made

  • liberty sleeveless made from yellow fabric I bought in India 175
  • Shorts blue weave from Japanese cotton 142
  • thin cotton shorts home made 136 
  • Shorts blue weave from Japanese cotton 142
  • thin cotton shorts home made 136
  • Cardigan knitted from Shetland wool 315

Bought

  • pyjamas Bottoms 212
  • pyjamas top 203
  • Jeans from M&S 619 Contain elasticine
  • Bali dress. A very light weight cotton grey dress 230
  • merino jumper. Great to wear but has gone way too bobbly 220
  • long sleeve top contains elastine – present 158
  • long sleeve top contains elastine – present 158
  • poll tax tee shirt 132
  • Indian kurta top. Bought this Mumbai India 215

2017

I needed warm as were were spending January in Spain. Contrary to popular opinion it can get very cold. Despite this the houses are not built for the cold and what with the tiled floors and wall and high ceilings can get pretty uncomfortable. can Warm lounge wear is the order of the day.

Then we went backpacking from India to Indonesia. Where yoga pants were the order of the day.

Clothes

Home made

  • Billy Bunter shorts 168
  • grey silk wool mix trousers 275 Palazzos
  • Liberty dress 218
  • Heavy silk sleevless  over tunic 245
  • Woolen 3/4 sleeve long tunic 293 MuMu Two

Clothes

Bought

  • Knickers 6 pairs 157
  • japanese socks 59
  • Brown shorts Malaysia 257
  • green skinny fit trousers  3% Elasticine 357
  • My cardigan is falling apart so I bought a new cotton cardigan from TK max Pure cotton it weighs in at 187 g
  • Girl gang tee shirt bought in Malaysia 159
  • Khaki tee shirt bought in Malaysia 155
  • PARIS tee shirt bought in Malaysia 165
  • Soul mate vest 148
  • Striped T shirt bought in Malaysia 134
  • My sarong weighs in at 212 g From Indonesia pure cotton very thin very beautiful. 212
  • cashmere pyjamas weigh in at 517 g
  • Towels from japan 214

regenerated

  • Yoga leggings Parkinson’s 224 Viscose 224

synthetic

  • crop top for yoga x 2 153
  • japanese socks 59
  • Grey rain coat
  • japanese hat 100
  • synthtic straw hat 100
  • Bikini top blue 97
  • Bikini top Decathalon 100
  • BikiniM&S 200
  • Leggings Bought in Ubud 222

2016

Returned home from backpacking the tropics. The days of 2 teeshirts, a mu-mu of modersty and backpackers bloomers were sadly over. I desperately needed some new clothes. The next three weeks saw me busy sewing. The design brief was a little more complex this year. Not only did the clothes have to be sustainable & plastic free, they had to be rather more dressy than I am used to. because at Easter we were fulfilling a long held dream – to be in Seville for the Santa Semana and the Feria. Then back to rather less showy Huddersfield for what I thought was going to be a hot summer. There were a couple of hot and steamy weeks I sewed sleeveless frocks and cool skirts. Then the weather turned obvs! so I had to quickly put together some rather warmer shirts. And buy some T shirts to wear under them.

Had hoped to be back on the road by winter but it was not to be so I had to make a thick skirt that I can wear with wooly tights and leggings.

  • 1 wool socks homemade 73g 73
  • socks from Debenhams 45
  • socks from Debenhams 45
  • Denim Long Shorts 316g 316
  • Linen Pants 414g 414
  • Corduroy Skirt 300g 300
  • stripy cotton skirt gifted 231g 231
  • The Bombazine Skirt 541g 541
  • Wrap Skirt 249g 249
  • Tabbard Frock 149g
  • Ebay Woolen jacket 180
  • Choir Boy grey smock top 132
  • Liberty Lawn Shirt red poppies 96g
  • Offset Tunic blue & white 157g
  • Vogue lawn top cross bodice 110g
  • Wrap shirt  108g
  • Wrap Shirt Lawn Chiffon 90
  • 3/4 sleeve T 156g each 156
  • 3/4 sleeve T 156g each 156
  • New spotty top from M&S 160g 160
  • Black vest gifted turned into seat cover for the van 144
  • grey vest 105g
  • White vest gifted 105g
  • Yorkshire Wool Waistcoat 178g

Regenerated Fibres

Bamboo is a regenerated fibre and falls somewhere between natural and synthetcic. Some biodegradae some do not. Bamboo is a form of regenerated fibre. Personally I dont like it but the socks were a gift. Read more here 

1 ankle socks bamboo skull & crossbones 45g

Synthetic Fibres

  • Huge circular skirt 243g
  • New Swim Top 75g
  • Total 318g

2015

3103 Total 3800 Allowance – Under 697 3.2 kg of synthetic fibres.

Got home and parked the van ( after living in it for a year) We left the U.K. in May and travelled from Kazakhstan to Indonesia. Mostly overland only flying when there was no alternative to places where the ferries no longer run – sigh.

My clothes had to see me through monsoon, snow and blazing tropical heat. I made most of my backpacking wardrobe before I left. Being on the road doesnt mean I can’t sew. I made my headscarf and backpackers bloomers while traveling.

Natural Fibres

  • 1 pair of knickers 28
  • Cashmere cardigan gifted 220
  • Blue teeshirt cotton gifted 226
  • Teeshirt from Thailand – cotton 123
  • Cotton Hat 2 20 
  • 1 scarf 7 
  • Flannel  7 
  • Sheet and pillowcase from srilanka 940 

Made

  • Synthetic Fibres
  • Ridiculous coat  and a new raincoat to replace it.Synthetic Fibres
  • leggings Synthetic Fibres
  • Crop top

2014 – what I started with

  • Bought
  • knickers
  • 2 pairs of trousers
  • 1 nightie
  • 1 Bra
  • Had
  • Tops, Cardigans & Jackets
  • 4 no Long Sleeve Tops – cotton
  • 1 grey – 2010
  • 1 striped – 2009
  • 1 blue – 2011
  • 1 red – 2014 year
  • Ranging from 5 to 3 years old except the red which was bought last year.
  • 6 no T Shirts & Vests – cotton (10)
  • 1 grey – had for ever.
  • Marks & Sparks 2014 156g each – no hangers
  • 1 black
  • 1 navy
  • 1 pale grey
  • 1 vest – years plus
  • 2 no Other (12)
  • wool tunic that I made from woolen fabric I have had for years. I have been wearing that for 18 months? Possibly longer.
  • Cotton shirt bought in India 2011
  • 2 no Warmer wear & Coats (14)
  • 1 synthetic jacket pre 2011
  • 1 nylon raincoat pre 2011
  • 4 no. Bottoms (18)
  • Shorts Summer 2014 Synthetic Fibres
  • Trackie bums cotton don’t know how old – over a year.
  • Thin long trews hot thin cotton bought Summer 2014
  • Thick long trews cold corduroy Autumn 2014 Marks & Spencers
  • 1 no Skirts & Dresses (19)
  • Linen dress made for Observer Awards 2014
  • Underwear & Sleep
  • Knickers (20)
  • I have counted knickers as one because for some reason I feel shy about telling you how many pairs of pants I own!?
  • Philippino pirate pants
  • M&S sometime last year
  • France 2014 a pack of knickers
  • 2 no Bras (21)
  • 1 reasonable bought spring 2014 synthetic fibres
  • 1 utterly awful that I only wear when the reasonable one is in the wash. At least 2 years old
  • 4 no Socks (25)
  • 2 thin pairs of socks – new before we left – gift.
  • 2 thick pairs of sock – made by my mum.
  • 5 no Sleep & Swim (32)
  • 1 nightgowns warm
  • 1 nightgown cool 2014 M&S
  • 1 Merino long johns 3 years at least
  • 2 bikinis years old– all synthetic
  • Towelling dressing gown
  • thin cotton dressing gown
  • 7 no Outerwear Hats & Shawls (39)
  • 1 wool hat 2013
  • 1 straw hat 2014
  • 1 wool scarf gift 2013
  • 3 pairs of gloves
  • 1 no shawl
  • 2 no Work in progress (41)
  • Spotty dress work in progress bought from charity shop
  • Sleeveless long vest / sleeveless tunic most cotton bought in Malaysia 2011
  • 4 no In storage (The cupboard we don’t talk about) (46)
  • Coats
  • 1 smart – wool years old
  • 1 very warm sheepskin second hand ages ago
  • 2 waterproof  walking coat- synthetic years old
  • 1 raincoat – synthetic cant even remember when
  • Other fabrics
  • back packers flannel

Clothes that have died

I had to buy a new raincoat to replace the stupid, non-weatherproof rubbish I got from T.K.Max.

1 blue patterned Teeshirt. Bought 2013 Singapore lost by the laundry in 2015 Thailand

Cotton Cargo Pants bought Summer 2014 Mountain Warehouse- dreadful purchase fell apart in less than a year.

Corduroy Trouser bought autumn 2014 Marks & Spencers worn almost continually in the autumn and winter of 2015. Died in the Spring of 2015 in China. Not exactly long lasting but one shouldn’t expect too much from corduroy and they did get worn a lot!

Fabric Types

Dont know regenerated yarn from a synthetic fibre? no worries. Theres lots of information on fibres yarns and fabric HERE

Terms
By gifted I mean something that people have passed on to me because they no longer want it. Second hand but not purchased.
When I say cotton/ natural fibres that doesn’t include buttons and other such stuff which will almost certainly be synthetic. As might be the thread used to sew the fabric.
Unless you are talking about my own homemade clothes where I can tell you exactly what plastic has been used.

Sewing
I can’t afford to buy eco clothing but I can afford to make it. I have been stiching like a demon and this year most of my new clothes have been handmade. Sadly my sewing skills are not so great. There are some rather strange outfits in there. You can read my plastic free sewing tips here…

About Fair Share

Whats a global share?

Rough calculations would suggest that the average amount of fibres per annum, for every person in the world, works out at 11.74 kg per person This is for everything – clothes, bedding, fabrics used in manufacturing, furnishings, businesses. All our fabric needs.
of which 3.8 kg is natural fibres.
As I don’t like synthetics I try to stick to 3.8 kg of natural fibres.
Just so you know a kingsize double duvet cover from Ikea weighs in at 991 grams and a Marks & Spencer short-sleeved tee-shirt is 156 grams.

Why not use 11 .74 kg of natural fibres? I would argue that it is not sustainable for us all to have 11.74 kg of natural fibres a year. This is one of the promoted benefits of plastic, that it takes the pressure off natural resources. Synthetic fabrics mean less land grab to grow cotton. But synthetic fabrics like any other plastic are massively polluting.

So if we cannot produce more, we have to consume less.  This is how the equation works for me:
We cannot exceed current levels of production:
We cannot expect others to want less than we have:
We cannot swamp the market with synthetics:
Therefore I have to live with my global share of natural fibres.Which is still probably to generous to be fully sustainable.

You can read more on the subject and check my figures and sources here.

Whats Sustainable Clothing?
Plastic-free, fair-trade, ethically made and lots more.You can read my clothing manifesto here
You can read more on the subject and check my figures and sources here.

Second Hand Clothes
Can I buy or accept second hand clothes to supplement my allowance? No. I can buy second-hand but it has to count as part of my allowance.
Unless they are from someone else participating in the scheme like Ami.

Read more here

Related Posts

More About Fabric

  • Lots of outrageous textile statistics HERE
  • This is an introduction to fibres, fabrics and why you might want to, and how to sew plastic free index
  • See all textile & wardrobe related posts HERE.

SaveSave

post

Tana Lawn Tunic

I didn’t actually need another tunic top but I have been possessed by a sewing demon and I simply cannot stop buying fabric especially when I came across this.
Liberty Tata Lawn.
It was in Abakan a Manchester fabric shops At first I thought it was some strange kind of silk. Maybe even a synthetic fibre. It was so fine and was covered in lovely design of what looked like pomegranates.
Abakan is a rather grim no nonsense shop which sell huge heaps of synthetic fabric by weight. For sure they have a small craft fabric department but since the disaster of the endlessly creasing Tabard Dress I am right off craft fabric. To find something so lovely and so obviously suitable for shirts was rather a shock.Which led to a quick bit of research.

Liberty Prints & Fabrics

I can tell you that Liberty is an amazing fabric shop in London. But also a huge part of British design history. In 1875 Arthur Lasenby Liberty  opened Libertys the shop selling ornaments, fabrics and objets d’art from the east. By 1884 Edward William Godwin  a distinguished architect joined the team and Liberty’s started making clothes. By the 1890s Arthur was working with English designers connected with the  Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau movement and his fabric designs had become massively popular. In the 1920s, Liberty began to produce small floral prints known as Liberty Prints. They were printed on one of their most famous fabrics Tana Lawn, still a Liberty best-seller.
In 1924 the mock-Tudor flag ship store store was built. It was designed by Edwin T. Hall it used, timbers from HMS Hindustan and HMS Impregnable. In proper Arts and Crafts style it was built using authentic and original Tudor techniques.
By the 1940s Liberty was firmly established as the supplier of must-have silk scarves.
Come the 1950s and 60s, an Arts & Crafts revival meant even Libertys old designs were still cutting edge. Art Nouveau designs were redrawn and coloured to make them more appealing to modern designers. They were used by all the great names.
But back to me and my fabric revelation.

Tana Lawn

is extremely high quality cotton. This was taken form the Liberty website….
Taking its name from Lake Tana in East Africa where the original cotton grew, Tana Lawn cotton is unique. Made from specially selected ultra-fine long staple cotton and finished without the use of crease-resisting chemicals or irritating allergens, the result is a famous masterpiece of fabric technology: fine, cool, comfortable and durable, with brilliant reproduction of colours and prints.

Fabric & Purchase Details 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

While Abakan might be a little bit grim they  sell at a discount. Tana lawn normally retails at around £22.00 a meter I got mine for 12.00. If you cant get to Manchester they have an online store. They don’t stock the whole Tana range – for that you will have to try Liberty or other shops.

As far as I know Tana Lawn boasts no organic or fair trade credentials but it was bought locally from Abakan in Manchester and buying locally and keeping fabric shops open are both very important to me.

It is 100% cotton. I prefer to use natural fibres because on consideration they are the greenest, biodegradable option and, even better, they don’t shed plastic microfibres when washed. Just in case you need it, here is a quick  intro to synthetic, regenerated, combination and natural fibres here. And more reasons why I prefer natural fabrics over the others can be found here.

Design & Pattern
McCalls M6102 1 hour dress. Really easy. You can see my patterns here.

Fixtures & Fittings
None needed

Made With
It was  cut out with all metal scissors from the C. Booths Hardware Shop in Huddersfield, sewn together using organic cotton on a wooden reel and made using plastic free sewing supplies (you can find them here).

Sustainable Rating
Natural fibres
Fabric was bought plastic free – no packaging
Supporting a local fabric shop
Homemade by me
Made with plastic free sewing supplies

Weighs In At g.

Why the weighing? Well this item of clothing is counted as part of my fair share fabrics project. This is a self imposed rationing system. I use no more than my global share of fibres and they have to be sustainably sourced. Whats a global share? 11.74 kg per person of which 3.8 kg is natural fibres. As I don’t like synthetics I try to stick to 3.8 kg of natural fibres.

More

 

post

Choir Boy Shirt

I have been making cotton tunics for a while now and while I love this very easy to make garment I fancied a change. I OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAwanted something with rather more space to move. The tunic pattern has fitted sleeves which can be a bit grabby under the arms if I wear them with a T shirt. Plus the body while not fitted has no extra space. I have to be careful when removing my tunics. I am not always careful tending to yank them off to the cracking sound of splitting stitches.

So I thought I would try me a gathered shirt with some raglan sleeves. A raglan sleeve is a single piece of fabric that extends from the collar of the garment over the shoulder and down to the underarm.

There is no seam around the shoulder rather that the seams attaching the sleeve to body run diagonally across the front and back of the shoulder. This results is more room in the underarm area allowing a greater ease of movement. Which is why it is often used in sports wear. And considered less formal than a fitted sleeve.

Fabric & Purchase Details

I bought some grey lawn from the Button Box in Huddersfield Market. This is more like a muslin it is softer more crumply and looks like a looser weave. I don’t know where it was originally made and it boasts no organic or fair trade credentials but it was bought locally and buying locally and keeping fabric shops open are both very important to me.

It is 100% cotton. I prefer to use natural fibres because on consideration they are the greenest, biodegradable option and, even better, they don’t shed plastic microfibres when washed. Just in case you need it, here is a quick  intro to synthetic, regenerated, combination and natural fibres here. And more reasons why I prefer natural fabrics over the others can be found here.

Design & Pattern

I found this pattern in a charity shop. New Look 6133.  It seemed to fit the bill give or take a frilled collar. I made it longer so it was more smock like. I cut the neck lower  and rather than a draw string, I  gathered the fabric and sewed it into place and attached a thin collar.

I tried it on. I looked like a choir boy!

I had to add pin tucks underneath the bust to give it some shape. Then rather than gather into cuffs I added pin tucks to the billowing sleeves to give them some shape too.

Fixtures & Fittings
Needs none

Made With
Cut out with all metal scissors from the C. Booths Hardware Shop in Huddersfield, sewn together using organic cotton on a wooden reel and made using plastic free sewing supplies (you can find them here).

Sustainable Rating
Natural fibres
Fabric was bought plastic free – no packaging
Supporting a local fabric shop
Homemade by me
Made with plastic free sewing supplies

Weighs In At 132g.

Why the weighing? Well this item of clothing is counted as part of my fair share fabrics project. This is a self imposed rationing system. I use no more than my global share of fibres and they have to be sustainably sourced. Whats a global share? 11.74 kg per person of which 3.8 kg is natural fibres. As I don’t like synthetics I try to stick to 3.8 kg of natural fibres.

More

post

Clothing Homemade A line skirt

A sensible, deep blue, below the knee A line skirt. I wear it with leggings or tights. Yes it sounds dreadful but it’s good for cycling in. I made it from a soft corduroy which I think stops it looking like too much like a school skirt. While it really is much nicer than the description implies even kindest friends would class it under practical rather than glamorous

Fabric & Purchase Details

I dont know where the corduroy was originally from and it boasts no organic or fair trade credentials but it was bought from my local fabric shop LeonsAnd buying locally and keeping fabric shops open are both very important to me.

It is 100% cotton. I prefer to use natural fibres because on consideration they are the greenest, biodegradable option and, even better, they don’t shed plastic microfibres when washed. Just in case you need it, here is a quick  intro to synthetic, regenerated, combination and natural fibres here. And more reasons why I prefer natural fabrics over the others can be found here.

Design & Pattern

I used the Mc Calls M6770 Misses’ Jacket, Bustle/Capelet, Skirt and Pants patterns as a very loose guide. The Mc Calls pattern features a bustle. My corduroy skirt doesn’t!

Fixtures & Fittings

I didnt bother with a waistband just turned the top over and fixed it using used bias binding. This is 100% cotton, bought by the meter and from a cardboard roll. I fitted a zip at the back The zip is metal and synthetic fibre. It is sold unpackaged. N.B.metal zips are not so easy to fit as plastic as they are bulky, dont sit as neatly in the seam and tend to flash and glint. Plastic zips are finer and so less obvious. As I always wear long tunic tops it is not an issue for me but you might want to consider it.

Made With

They were  cut out with all metal scissors from the C. Booths Hardware Shop in Huddersfield, sewn together using organic cotton on a wooden reel and made using plastic free sewing supplies (you can find them here).

Sustainable Rating
Natural fibres
Fabric was bought plastic free – no packaging
Supporting a local fabric shop
Homemade by me
Made with plastic free sewing supplies

Weighs In At 300g.

Why the weighing? Well this item of clothing is counted as part of my fair share fabrics project. This is a self imposed rationing system. I use no more than my global share of fibres and they have to be sustainably sourced. Whats a global share? 11.74 kg per person of which 3.8 kg is natural fibres. As I don’t like synthetics I try to stick to 3.8 kg of natural fibres.

More

post

Clothing Homemade Denim 3/4 length

No Daisy Dukes for me! Check out these bad boys! Below the knee, denim shorts with half gather waist. Made for when the weather was warmer only posted now!

Fabric & Purchase Details

I don’t know where the denim was originally made and it boasts no organic or fair trade credentials but it was bought locally from the Button Box in Huddersfield Market. And buying locally and keeping fabric shops open are both very important to me.

It is 100% cotton. I prefer to use natural fibres because on consideration they are the greenest, biodegradable option and, even better, they don’t shed plastic microfibres when washed. Just in case you need it, here is a quick  intro to synthetic, regenerated, combination and natural fibres here. And more reasons why I prefer natural fabrics over the others can be found here.

Design & Pattern

I thought I could adapt the Palazzo Trouser pattern I have already used for the Linen Trousers. I still wanted to use a drawstring waist (no plastic elastic for me!), but didn’t want them to be quite as gathered. The denim is much thicker than the linen so doesn’t gather as easily. I didn’t want to end up with crinoline style shorts.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Shorts hanging in festoons?

I narrowed the legs of the pants and added darts at the back waist to make a more fitted butt. This means only the front is gathered. The bum bit works well and is a comfortable fit… but the back of the pants have a tendency to hang in festoons? It doesn’t really matter and they might soften out with washing but for my next attempt at trousers I will try a different, proper pattern rather than adapting one.

Fixtures & Fittings
Plastic free drawstring fixing.

Made With
They were  cut out with all metal scissors from the C. Booths Hardware Shop in Huddersfield, sewn together using organic cotton on a wooden reel and made using plastic free sewing supplies (you can find them here).

Sustainable Rating
Natural fibres
Fabric was bought plastic free – no packaging
Supporting a local fabric shop
Homemade by me
Made with plastic free sewing supplies

Weighs In At 414g.

Why the weighing? Well this item of clothing is counted as part of my fair share fabrics project. This is a self imposed rationing system. I use no more than my global share of fibres and they have to be sustainably sourced. Whats a global share? 11.74 kg per person of which 3.8 kg is natural fibres. As I don’t like synthetics I try to stick to 3.8 kg of natural fibres.

More

Tabbard Tunic Top

This is a simple sleeveless dress with bust darts to add a bit of shape. It looks rather like those old pinafores people used to wear hence the name.

kate

It is easy to wear – either as a comfortable tunic when worn over a tee shirt and leggings or a cool dress for those hotter days. This Summer I hardly need say I have been wearing it as a tunic, over leggings, with a cardigan!

I bought this material locally from the Button Box in Huddersfield Market.  . It is 100% cotton.

Notes On This Cotton – Craft Fabric

I would be very pleased with it if it wasn’t for the fabric…..

It is a silky fabric that creases easily. I mean really easily. I wear it for seconds and it looks like crumpled paper. I am not sure it is a dress making fabric. It was sold in small bales folded on a cardboard board. In a section of the shop called craft fabrics. I think they are mainly used for patchwork and quilting. Is this cotton somehow different?  Rose & Hubble fabrics are sold the same way and the stuff I used for my loon pants worked out fie.  I thought with washing it would soften it as has happened with my loon pants. These are made out of Rose & Hubble cotton. They are now so soft I don’t need to iron them. Actually I never ironed them and while they looked rumpled I could get away with it. Not a chance of that with this top! Still as stiff as a board, needs ironing before I can wear it. Even with my low sartorial standard I feel I have to do at least that. Once on, it creases immediately.

As time has passed it’s tendency to crease has annoyed me more and more. As has the constant ironing.

Pattern New Look 6558

Sustainable Rating

  • Natural fibres
  • Fabric was bought plastic free – no packaging
  • Supporting a local fabric shop
  • Homemade by me

Weighs In At 149 grams

Why the weighing

As an experiment, in 2015, I pledged to use no more than my fair global share of fibres This is a self imposed rationing system. I use no more than my global share of fibres and they have to be sustainably sourced. What’s a global share? Share out all the fibres made by all the people on the planet and it works out, (very roughly), 11.74 kg per person of which 3.8 kg is natural fibres. As I don’t like synthetics I try to stick to 3.8 kg of natural fibres.

Why Natural Fibres?

I prefer to use natural fibres because on consideration they are the greenest, biodegradable option and, even better, they don’t shed plastic microfibres when washed.

Just in case you need it, here is a quick  intro to synthetic, regenerated, combination and natural fibres here. And more reasons why I prefer natural fabrics over the others can be found here.

How to Sew

Here is an introduction to why you might want to, and how you can, start sewing plastic free. Plus all my  sewing projects to date. Read More

post

Clothing Homemade Offset Tunic

Bought some lovely organic cotton cambric from Offset Warehouse an online fabric store that sell greener than green fabrics.

Such as this lovely patterned cambric that is

  1. made from organic (uncertified) cotton
  2. hand woven and printed by hand using wooden “hand-blocks”.
  3. The dyes used in the printing are azo-free
  4. The weaving and printing is done in a cooperative and certified Fair Trade by the WFTO.
  5. As it is a hand-made product, the process uses virtually no energy or water!
  6. can be washed in washing machines.

I prefer to use natural fibres because on consideration they are the greenest option, they don’t shed plastic microfibres when washed and, even better, at the end of a long and useful life, I can compost them.

Just in case you need it, here is a quick  intro to synthetic, regenerated, combination and natural fibres here. And the reasons why I prefer natural fabrics over the others can be found in detail here.

More Information

Weave/Knit Type Plain, Woven
Thread Count 46 x 46
width 119cm 47″

Packaging

I had been assured that the packaging was plastic free and it almost was. The fabric came wrapped in tissue paper in a cardboard box but the box was sealed with plastic tape and the invoice was attached to the front in a plastic bag. Sigh!

Pattern

McCalls M6102 1 hour dress. Really easy

Fixtures & Fittings

No fixings needed.

It was cut out with all metal scissors from the C. Booths Hardware Shop in Huddersfield, sewn together using organic cotton on a wooden reel and made using plastic free sewing supplies  (you can find them here).

Sustainable Rating

  • Natural fibres
  • Organic
  • Fair-trade
  • Homemade by me
  • Made with plastic free sewing supplies

Weighs In

At 157g.

Why the weighing? Well this item of clothing is counted as part of my fair share fabrics project. This is a self imposed rationing system. I use no more than my global share of fibres and they have to be sustainably sourced. Whats a global share? Share out all the fibres made by all the people on the planet and it works out, (very roughly), at 11.74 kg per person of which 3.8 kg is natural fibres. As I don’t like synthetics I try to stick to my fair share of 3.8 kg of natural fibres. Here are the figures in full.

More

About this fabric

Vasanta Fairtrade Cambric
A beautiful light blue print on a smooth, clean white base. The design is printed by hand using wooden “hand-blocks”. The dyes are totally ironable and colourfast (although we always recommend washing your fabrics before you make) and the fabric can be washed in washing machines.

Originally from India, the ethnic print has a rustic, authentic and unique quality to it.  It is a fabric that will transend seasons and works in both fashion and interiors. This is a heavier, cambric weight, so ideal for lightweight clothing, and semi sheer soft furnishings. It’s a little transparent against darker colours, so would recommend lining if the material is used for clothing.

Due to the hand-woven style of this fabric, it may contain some small weaving irregularities, but this adds to its rustic appearance and doesn’t affect the look or quality. The dyes are azo-free and the cotton is organic and totally biodegradable. The weaving and printing is done in a cooperative and certified Fair Trade by the WFTO. As it is a hand-made product, the process uses virtually no energy or water!

Limited Availability – Once this fabric has sold out it will be wholesale only, with a minimum of 80 metres and a lead time of approximately 8 weeks
Product Name

Textile Index more clothes, more links and more information.

  • Whats counts as sustainable – read our clothing manifesto
  • post

    The Fulsome Foolish Skirt

    We were planning to visit Seville for the Feria, the big flamenco party. To say it is dreey would be understating. I spent a lot of time wondering what I could possibly wear. The flamenco dresses I had seen looked very elaborate featuring different fabrics, trimmings and all manner frou-frouery. Needless to say I possessed nothing like that. Then, while meandering through the Indonesian markets, I came across some very lively sarongs. They were highly patterned strips of fabric featuring a bold use of color and frantic patterning. If, I thought, I was to make a skirt out of such sarongs, it would look extremely ornate. Not frilly but with a general air of exuberance that would make it suitable for a flamenco night out.

    So I bought some. They were amazingly cheap but I was assured they were made from Indonesian cotton. They are not. They are synthetic fibres. I didn’t realize this till I got home, tried to iron them and they melted. I was annoyed. Not only did I have to spend hours scraping away at the iron but I don’t like wearing synthetic fabrics. I’m sure you know that synthetic fibres contribute to micro plastic pollution. When they are washed, they shed tiny, non-biodegradable, synthetic fibres into the drains. These are then washed out to sea where they are now polluting the oceans and being eaten by plankton.

    Still I thought I could still make the skirt, wear it for the Feria, and never, ever wash it. After all how much demand would there be for such a lively skirt in my daily life? So I copied a pattern for a circular skirt from the internet, sewed it up and tried it on. It hung nicely but it was full…. very full. Draped over my Rubenesque curves it looked rather tent like – by which I mean a big top. It might have worked if I had made it from a different fabric. Something with less pattern and nicer colors. Lord knows what I was thinking but dominant tints were bottle green and aquamarine blue covered in hot pink and purple flowers. It looked funky in the market place as a sarong; it looked insane as a swirling skirt on a wide berthed middle aged woman. So much so I will not be featuring a photo of me modeling it.

    So I now have a huge and very ugly skirt which I can never wash and never wear. But as I can’t bear waste so I am keeping it as a permanent pattern for future huge skirts I may wish to make. In fact I used it as the base for my Japanese Fish Wrap Skirt.

    More

    Weight 243g. This counts as part of my fair share fabrics project– a self imposed rationing system where I use no more than my global share of fibres and they have to be sustainably sourced. Whats a global share? 11.74 kg per person of which 3.8 kg is natural fibres. As I don’t like synthetics I try to stick to 3.8 kg of natural fibres.

    post

    Chiffon Shirt

    For the Feria (the week-long party in Seville,)I made a chiffon top. I know – get me…. in chiffon. I wanted something see through to wear over my vest and bombazine skirt that would look sort of dressy. I wanted something like this.ffbb5a956a143c87b32d93c5e9ea24c8

    I had a practise run with white lawn which was partly successful. Now I was ready for the real thing. I bought some silk chiffon from Ebay. Other than it is natural fibres, there is nothing particularly sustainable about this but it was cheap, it was seen through and if it all went wrong I would not have spent too much.

    I made it in black. It was fine for the Semana. Easter week is marked with big parades, penitents in gloomy Klan outfits incense and weeping virgins. Gloomy black was just right.

    It was not going to work for the Feria. In the last week everyone has started on their outfits. The shops are full of fantastic frocks, people are staggering through the streets laden down with lace, flowers and shiny jewels. There are tasselled shawls fans and fedoras every where you look. They don’t do minimalism

    OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis is what people are planning to wear and that is the plainest dress I could find.

    I can get away with black, I cannot do without trimmings.So the last few days has seen me desperately titivating my outfit. In Seville. They sell cotton crochet yarn very cheaply here so I have knitted a frilly collar through which I have threaded some lace and ribbon. I have attached this to the chiffon top.

    I have also bought some fancy tights. Hope this will see me right!

    Sustainable Rating

    Natural fibres
    Homemade
    Made with plastic free sewing supplies  (you can find them here)

    Buy

    I bought this fabric on Ebay. It came packaged in a plastic bag.It cost £15.00 and I have some left over.
    The cotton coller was made from cotton bought from the Chinese Grocery in Macarena, Seville and knitted using metal needles bought in plastic packaging.
    The ribbons and lace are all synthetic fibres.

    More

    This counts as part of my fair share of global fabrics – a self imposed rationing system. You can read about it here
    You can read more about clothes I have made and the the rest of my wardrobe here.
    Find other clothing related posts here

    post

    The Experimental Wrap Around Shirt

    This is what I wanted to make but I couldn’t find a pattern so I decided to adapt the Mc Calls M6996 Misses’ Jackets & Belt pattern, the one used for the waistcoat.

    As I had no proper idea as to what I was doing, I thought it might be practical to make a toile first. A toile, also known as a muslin, is a trial run using cheap fabric. The cheap fabric I chose was lawn. I got it from Ebay. The same place I got the wool for the jacket. I bought it because it was cheap and I wanted to know what lawn was. They are always talking about it in Jane Austin type books but other than the green stuff outside your house I have no idea what it is like.

    Turns out it is a really fine cotton, soft and semi transparent. Far too nice for trial runs. And then remembered I am living within my global share of fabric this year. This is a self imposed rationing system. I am only allowed 3.8 of natural fibres. I cant afford to be making toiles and then not wearing them.

    So here I am, wearing my experimental wrap around top. It wasn’t entirely successful but I quite like it. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

    After the practise run I was ready for the real thing………

    Sustainable Rating

    • Natural fibres
    • Homemade
    • Supporting local fabric trader.
    • Made with plastic free sewing supplies  (you can find them here)

    Buy

    I bought this, pink gingham cotton and some lovely lawn (a very fine cotton) from Maggie, a very nice Ebay trader who is based in Leeds. It came packaged in a plastic bag.

    It cost £9.00 and I have some left over.

    More

    This counts as part of my fair share of global fabrics – a self imposed rationing system. You can read about it here #

    Weighs In At

    grams Why the weighing? Well this item of clothing is counted as part of my fair share fabrics project. This is a self imposed rationing system. I use no more than my global share of fibres and they have to be sustainably sourced. Whats a global share? Share out all the fibres made by all the people on the planet and it works out, (very roughly), 11.74 kg per person of which 3.8 kg is natural fibres. As I don’t like synthetics I try to stick to 3.8 kg of natural fibres. Here are the figures in full.

    More

     

    post

    Ebay Fabric Jacket

    Sometimes you need to go cheap and Ebay has some great fabric bargains. I got myself some great woolen fabric described as SCOTTISH HIGHLAND FINEST GREY FINE TWEED 100% PURE NEW WOOL SUITING FABRIC at £6.00. a meter I don’t know if it is made in Scotland – at that price I doubt it -but the seller lives in Leeds which is local.

    I was a bit leery about buying from Ebay but pure wool at that price? In grey, my favorite color. Worth a try. And I needed some cheaper fabric as my next project was risky

    I had decided to make myself a jacket. I realized this was foolishly ambitious and going to test my sewing skills to the limit. Bear in mind I still can’t do button holes and you do not want to see that zip in the back of the bombazine skirt. There’s more than one reason I wear long tops.

    But back to the jacket! I thought I would start with something simple. Something like this.

    Mc Calls M6770 Misses’ Jacket, Bustle/Capelet, Skirt and Pants. I know what you are thinking but the pattern was in the sale and really cheap. Possibly there’s a reason for that but I can’t resist a bargain. I never intended to add the ruffles or the lace.

    Any way the fabric arrived, (in a plastic bag), and it was surprisingly lovely. Well pleased I set off sewing.

    Here’s my jacket. It is not a complete success. None of it sits quite right. The sleeves are rather strange and the seams pucker everywhere. But if I keep moving and wear it with other flowing stuff I recon I can just about swing it.
    You see it pictured with the Yorkshire Wool Waistcoat and the Mu Mu Of Modesty  both homemade, worn over my gifted, stripy skirt and yoga leggings.

    Sustainable Rating

    • Natural fibres
    • Homemade
    • Possibly made in the U.K. fabric – I did contact the seller and she said it was described as Scottish Highland Tweed but there was no mill label.
    • Supporting local fabric trader.
    • Made with plastic free sewing supplies  (you can find them here)

    Buy

    I bought this, pink gingham cotton and some lovely lawn (a very fine cotton) from Maggie, a very nice Ebay trader who is based in Leeds. It came packaged in a plastic bag.

    My jacket cost £12.00 and I have enough left to make a skirt.

    More

    This counts as part of my fair share of global fabrics – a self imposed rationing system. You can read about it here # 

    And  can see what else I have made, here

    See the rest of my wardrobe here.

    Find other clothing related posts here