post

It is so easy to make your own creams and lotion that once you start you will never look back. The advantages are huge; you get to control what goes on your skin, be way more eco-friendly and save a whole load of cash. You can make almost anything the cosmetic companies sell but without the palm oil, dodgy chemicals and weird colours. Though you can have all those too if you want.

You will need
Oil, butters & waxes. There are hundreds of vegetable oils. Different skins like different oils and you will have to experiment to find what is best for you. Generally speaking the richer the oil the heavier the cream, the more water you put in the lighter the lotion. There are hundreds of vegetable oils. Different skins like different oils and you will have to experiment to find what is best for you.  See my guide to oils here.

Water There is much talk of using distilled water but I use tap.

Cooking thermometer – VERY useful.

Emulsifiers: Water and fat do not naturally mix, you need to use an emulsifier.You have to add other ingredients to turn what is basically salad dressing into lovely thick cream. So in addition to oils and water you will need an emulsifier.

Preservatives – optional I don’t use it as it cause skin irritations. Oil on its own does not go off – there is no water for bacterial to feed on Once you have added water to oil your creams are vulnerable. This is useful but optional. I don’t use it as it cause skin irritations. I have had a few pots of cream go mouldy but we are talking maybe 5 in the years I have been making my own creams.

Pots to put your cream in.

The cream making process is simple
Mix the oils and emulsifier and heat to a certain temperature.
Mix the two together. Ta da.

Except when you find yourself looking down into a pot of oily soup. And that is down to the emulsifier. It didn’t do it’s job!
There are a few completely natural emulsifiers but they  do not give consistent results. Most commercially used emulsifiers are manufactured.
They are derived from coconut oil and palm oil. More recently, rapeseed has been used.
But some are produced from pig fats. Check what you buy.
A combination of VE Emulsifier, MF Emulsifier and Cetearyl Alcohol works every time and can be used to make a wide range of products from thick creams to thin lotions.
VE Emulsifier or Glyceryl Stearate is a vegetable-based emulsifier
Cetearyl Alcohol is a vegetable based emulsifying wax
MF Emulsifier or Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate  can be fermented from lactose (milk sugar)but more commonly comes  from nondairy sources such as cornstarch, potatoes and molasses.

Please note that VE Emulsifier & MF Emulsifiers do include palm oil but in tiny amounts, Be sure to buy from a good practice supplier.

Palm Oil
Please note that all the above may be derived from or include palm oil. Be sure to buy from a good practice supplier. For example there should be something this note on Aromantics VE emulsifier “The Palm oil that is used in both in MF/VE emulsifiers comes from suppliers that are either members of the Round Table of Sustainable Palm Oil or a subsidiary company or who are members of FEDIOL which supports sustainability. FEDIOL is a European industry federation based in Brussels”.
You can read more about palm oil here.

Process

Heat the Fat Stage ingredients in a double boiler ( or a metal pot on hot water) until above 75°C. Use a thermometer to check
Boil the water add the MF emulsifier and other Water Stage ingredients.
Keep both hot – make sure both liquids are above 75°C.
Take off heat
Pour the Fat Stage into the Water Stage in a slow steady stream before they drop below 75°C.
Mix well – I use a hand blender.
Allow to cool. Whisk occasionally to achieve a nice creamy consistency. As the mixture cools it becomes thicker and more creamy. It will reach its thickest consistency when it has cooled down to room temperature.
When the temperature is below 40°C you can add active ingredients
perfumes or essential oils and other magical things to make you look years younger.
specialist ingredients to your base to make for example sun tan lotion or self tan.

Pour the Cream into jars and label.

Recipes

Here are some sample recipes.

Supermarket Cream (My recipe)

You can buy all these ingredient from the supermarket.  I cut the olive oil with the lighter almond oil because I find it rather heavy.

Makes One liter of cream – have a big pot ready!

Fat Stage

      • 25 g VE Emulsifier
      • 20g Cetyl Alcohol
      • 70ml Almond Oil Tesco’s or Asian Shop
      • 30ml Olive Oil
      • 20g coconut oil Tescos or Asian Shop

Water Stage

      • 800ml water
      • 40g MF emulsifier

Fancy Aromatics Recipe

To be honest I think this recipe has way to many ingredients but I like this company, I have used their products many times and think that this will probably make a nice cream.

It is also useful to have a recipe that lists by percentages.

You can experiment and use different oils, or even less oils. Just make sure the percentages stay the same. For example you can cut the thistle oil and use 10% Apricot Kernal Oil.

By percentage

Fat Stage (above 75°C)
2% Cocoa Butter
3% Macadamia Nut Oil
7% Apricot Kernel Oil
3% Thistle Oil
2.5% VE Emulsifier
2% Cetearyl Alcohol

Water Stage (above 75°C)
4.5% MF Emulsifier
69% Boiling Spring Water
2% Glycerine

Third Stage (below 40°C)
1% Preservative 12 or Eco
1% Vitamin E Simulated Natural
2% NFF Complex
1% Essential Oils of your choice

From Aromantics

Rich Tropical Delights Cream (My recipe)

Much easier far fewer ingredients. I cut the olive oil with Almond because I find it rather heavy.

Makes One liter of cream – have a big pot ready!

Fat Stage

      • 25 g VE Emulsifier
      • 20g Cetyl Alcohol
      • 70ml Almond Oil
      • 30ml Coconut Oil
      • 20g Shea butter
      • 10g Cocoa butter

Water Stage

      • 800ml water
      • 40g MF emulsifier

Design Your Own

You can adapt the mix of oils for the above recipes based on your personal preference.

If you want to design you own from scratch, follow these guidelines…

      • Emulsifiers 5-8%
      • Oils 12-20%
      • Water, Additives, and Botanicals to 100 %.

Lotions

If you want a thinner cream add more water at the water stage.

Anti Aging, Sun Tan Lotion & Fake Bake

You can add  specialist ingredients to your base to make for example sun tan lotion or self tan.

Take Care

      • That everything you use is clean, very clean.
      • Make sure you have enough pots to store your cream in.
      • That you label it – and date it. Believe me you will forget!

Trouble Shoot

Cream too thick? You cannot add more water once the mixture has cooled. This ruins the cream – it will not rub in. You will need to make a thinner lotion and mix your creams to achieve the desired consistency. You can add more oil and mix well. This of course makes your cream more oily.

Buy

I store my creams in old jars but for display  I have bought some glass jars with metal lids.

Aromantics is a good and ethical supplier of ingredients but expensive. I buy a lot of stuff in bulk from other suppliers. Ebay is a good source. Prices vary so do shop around.

Plastic Spoiler

Most plastic base ingredients come in plastic bags but I get huge amounts cream out of one small bag of ingredients so I consider it a worthwhile compromise.

Making Personal Care Products Hairspray featured

Its quicker then  trying to choose between a hundred different shampoos and it’s really simple, fun to do, so much cheaper  and  I get to control what goes on my  body, where it comes from and what environmental impact it has.

Lots more info here on  toothpaste and other products  

and making other stuff – here.

More

Making creams while travelling

You cannot carry a years supply of home made cream in your rucksack so here are some ideas about making your own home made creams in hotel bedrooms.

RECIPES

Here are some cream and lotion recipes

Kits
If this is your first time making lotions I can also recommend the Aromantics cream making starter pack from www.aromantic.co.uk  It comes with everything you need including, sadly, 30 little plastic pots to put it in. All the ingredients were wrapped in plastic bags as well. Hmmm. On the plus side, the cream is really easy to make and they send you several different recipes.


BLOG STATS As of 01.29.2017 onward have been counting the number people who have read each post.

One thought on “Creams & Lotions – Recipes

Leave a Reply