post

My Share Of Fabric

I try to ration my fabric use to 3.8 kg of natural fabric /fibre products. That is for everything from towels to dishcloths.Just so you know a kingsize double duvet cover from Ikea weighs in at 991 grams and a Marks & Spencer short-sleeved tee-shirt is 156 grams.

Why? Because I feel the plastic-free wardrobe, bedroom and spa should only contain natural fabrics in sustainable amounts. But what is sustainable. How much is that in real terms? And how do you decide?

Heres what fibres and fabrics are currently used in the U.K.

  • 3.25 million tonnes of clothing and textiles flow through the UK each year – approximately 55kg per person.
  • Consumers in the UK spend about £780 per head per year, purchasing around 2.15 million tonnes (35kg per person)

Heres how many textile fibres are produced annually:

So let’s do some sums. Rough calculations would suggest that the average amount of fibres per annum, for every person in the world, works out at 11.74 kg per person This is for everything – clothes, bedding, fabrics used in manufacturing, furnishings, businesses. All our fabric needs.

We in the UK are using 55kg of fabric per person and 35kg of that is on clothes. We are obviously taking more than our share of fabrics produced.

Here’s how the figures are worked…. There are 7,304,489,285 people in the world right now Current World Population http://www.worldometers.info These are the fabrics produced (see here for sources and more info)

source Fibre Metric tonnes Amount per person
1 Cotton 25000000 3.43 kg
1 Wool- Sheep 2100000 29g
1 Wool – Other 40000 1g
1 Silk 150000 2g
1 Linen 147000 2g
Total 3.8kg
2 Total Fibers (natural & synthetic) 85500000 11.74

Increased Consumption

We are taking more than our fair share. So what about those who have less than their fair share? Well the second-hand clothing market is huge. Tonnes of second-hand clothing each year are exported overseas (including many of the clothes donated to charity) ending up in third world street markets.

Result! The poorer countries can always have our cast offs. In fact we are doing them a favor by giving it away. But suppose the saucy poor want new clothes? And in the amounts we have them? To maintain our level of consumption, and give use all 35kg of clothes each year, production would have to triple.

Fabric production like everything has an environmental impact and carbon footprint, a rather large one actually. And then there’s the waste created by this massive amount of clothing. I would argue that it is not sustainable for us all to have 35kg of new clothes each year.

Responsible Consumption

So if we cannot produce more, we have to consume less.  This is how the equation works for me

  • We cannot exceed current levels of production
  • We cannot expect others to want less than we have.
  • Therefore we have to consume our global share

Fair sharing of resources or 11.74kg of fabric per person.

Plastic free consumption

I prefer to use only natural and, (ideally), organic fibres. There are many good reasons why (and here they are) However I do not think an increase in production is justified. For 11 kg of natural fibres per person we would need to grow tonnes more cotton, farm lots more sheep and millions of silkworms would have to die. This would put a huge pressure on land water and other natural resources. So I am going to use my share of natural fibres, 3.8kg of new fabrics a year for clothing, bedding and towels. I will use a few synthetic fibres for specialist clothing and tents.

Conclusions

This is a rough working figure. I am not claiming that current levels of production are sustainable. Nor that 11.74 kg per person is absolute. My world plan needs some work. Children for example might be given less, hospitals, nursing homes and other such places might need an allowance for more. Maybe you would have to pay part of your hotel bill with clothing coupons to contribute to sheet cost. There are all kinds of glitches that need working on but I have to start somewhere and this is it.

Benefits 9254be68c30f305028fb54a68f5198b4

Can it be done? I don’t know! But lets look at the benefits of the fair share fabric scheme. The first would be it would make clothes valuable and so valued again and the unsustainable consumption of clothing would be halted.

  • Clothes would be better made as they would have to last longer.
  • Rather than having hundreds of trashy items we would have fewer well made fantastic pieces.
  • We would all look like this
  • Quality fabrics like Harris tweed would be back in fashion.
  • People would adapt their clothes to suit new trends and not buy new
  • Swapping clothes would be the norm.

Really, it’s a fantastic idea. Second Hand Clothes Can I buy second hand clothes to supplement my allowance? No. I can buy second-hand but it has to count as part of my allowance.

post

Fabric – An Introduction

Post Index

Definitions

Making Fabric

  • Types  Of Fabric
  • Fabric Weights 
  • Why Organic & Fair-trade 

Related Posts

An Introduction To Fabric

Introduction 

Fibres are short fine hairs that can be twisted or spun into longer thread or yarn. This is then woven or knitted into fabric.Natural fibres biodegrade. Synthetic fibres are man-made and plastic. Most dont. Regenerated Fibres are cellulose converted through a chemical process. Some it is claimed are biodegradable. Some are not. Yarns and fabrics made from these fibres share these qualities. Clothing – ditto. 

Natural Fibres used for finer fabrics and yarn include

  • Cotton used to make cotton
  • Flax is used to make linen. It is one of the strongest vegetable fibres. Other vegetable fibres include hemp and nettles.
  • Coarse fibres such as hemp is used to make sacking 
  • Wool and other animal hair 
  • Silk strong and light weight. Read more here.
  • Read more  HERE

Synthetic fibres

These are man-made from chemicals many of which are petroleum derived. Acrylic, nylon and polyester  are the most common. They are made from oil and coal.

  • Acrylic fibre resembles wool and so is used to replace that natural fibre.
  • Nylon is used as a silk substitute. It is a very fine and strong fibre so can be used to make ladies tights.
  • Polyester is one of the most popular man-made fibres. It can be used to mimic almost any natural fibre. is the same Polyethylene terephthalat, (frequently shortened to PET or PETE and was formerly called PETP or PET-P), that is used to make bottles and a lot of other plastic stuff.
  • Read more HERE

Regenerated Fibres

The base material is cellulose that can be obtained from a range of sources including wood, paper, cotton fiber, or  bamboo. It is then converted through a chemical process into a fiber.

They usually go under the trade names such as 

  • Rayon
  • Bamboo Rayon
  • Viscose,
  • Modal
  • Tencel (lyocell)

Regenerated Fibres & fabrics  a very basic introduction

Making Fabric

Fabric can be woven or knitted from yarn made by spinning fibres. 

Fabrics are often named  after yarn type. So cotton can be the fibre the yarn or the fabric. They can be a mixture of yarns like poly cotton – polyester and cotton mix. They may be named after the trade name like Modal.

Mixed Fibre Fabric

Where different fibres are mixed together like a wool/ silk mix  popular for suits or natural and synthetic eg polycotton

Stretch Fabrics

Stretch fabrics contains elasticine also called Spandex or Lycra. It 

is a synthetic fiber known for its exceptional elasticity. It can be stretched up to 7 times it’s own length and snaps back into shape. It is blended with other fibres, both synthetic and natural, to create a stretchy fabric great for underwear and sports wear. Read more here

more names for fabric

There are many different kind of weave resulting in fabrics of different thickness and texture. Fabrics may be named after the weave for example twill.

Jersey is a knitted fabric that could be made from cotton, silk or polyester.

Cotton fabric can be described as denim, lawn or muslin.

Silk comes under any number of of luscious sounding names including Charmeuse, Chiffon and Crepe de Chine.

Different types of fabric have different qualities – demin is a heavy thick hard wearing cotton fabric while lawn is thin sheer cotton fabric. Differences are down to how the fabric is made and the weight (thickness) of the yarn used.

You can find over 200 types of fabric listed HERE

Fabric Weights

GSM means grammes per square metre so typically a voile or muslin would weigh less than 100 grammes per metre.

Shirtweight would be 100 to 200 gsm. Lightweight canvas would be around 300gsm. Denim is often classified in oz per sq yard. 12 oz = 400 gsm.

Natural & Ethical Fabrics

As many fabrics are made in poorer countries, do try to source fair-trade when ever possible. There are good reasons for trying to also source organic. Cotton especially uses huge amounts of pesticides.

Problem is fair trade and organic don’t come cheap and I can’t always afford it. So, without beating myself up about it, I also buy natural but almost-certainly-non-organic, who-knows-how-it-is-made fabric from local fabric shops.

Buy Fabrics

Buy fabric and other related informotion here



post

2016 Fair Share Fabric & Clothing Rationing

The figures are in … In 2016 I used
Total 3.835 natural fibres
Total 318g synthetic fibres
Total 45g regenerated fibres
My Fair Share Fibre Ration

Why the weighing? I have pledged to use no more than my fair global share of fibres and they have to be sustainably sourced. Whats a global share? 11.74 kg per person of which 3.8 kg is natural fibres. As I don’t like synthetics I try to stick to 3.8 kg of natural fibres. You can check my figures here.

So I am over on natural fibres but way under on synthetics.
However in 2015  I bought 3.15 kg of natural fibre products and 3.2 kg of synthetic fibres. – so I had a 65g surplus of natural fibres to use up

Sustainability

You can read my clothing manifesto here

Circumstances
The clothes you wear are dictated by your lifestyle so here’s what I needed to dress for this year:
Returned home from backpacking the tropics. The days of 2 teeshirts, a mu-mu of modersty and backpackers bloomers were sadly over. I desperately needed some new clothes. The next three weeks saw me busy sewing. The design brief was a little more complex this year. Not only did the clothes have to be sustainable & plastic free, they had to be rather more dressy than I am used to. 

Returned home from backpacking the tropics. The days of 2 teeshirts, a mu-mu of modesty and backpackers bloomers were    sadly over. I desperately needed some new clothes. The next three weeks saw me busy sewing. The design brief was a little more complex this year. Not only did the clothes have to be sustainable & plastic free, they had to be rather more dressy than I am used to because at Easter we were fulfilling a long held dream – to be in Seville for the Santa Semana and the Feria.

Santa Semana is a week of processions elaborately decorated floats are hauled through the streets, by teams of ‘costaleros’ (bearers) followed by hundreds of ‘nazarenos’ (penitents), many in pointy hoods looking very sinister. This is followed a couple of weeks later with a big party The Real de la Feria where people drink, dance and dress up. The “women wear the traditional “traje de gitano”, literally “gypsy outfits” or flamenco dresses, often in bright colors, and accessorized with matching/coordinating flower in hair, comb, jewelry, tasseled scarf/shawl and fan. Apparently the “dresses are pricey, but worth investing in if you’ll be coming back again – nothing makes you feel part of an event like being dressed appropriately”

Bugger! After nearly a year backpacking, preceded by a year living in a van I can truthfully claim that while all my outfits may well be representative of the modern-day gypsy none of them are fit for a party. This nomad wears khaki shorts, sludgy colored T-shirts (murky from repeated mixed washes) and the emergency muumuu for visiting Iran. Absolutely no bright colors or fringed shawls and definitely no frills.

All I have in my hair is twigs and bits of straw. I haven’t accessorized since my Jackie reading days.

But I am not investing in a dress. I can’t afford it and I would feel ridiculous. More importantly I am living within my fair share of fabric allowance so any clothes I get are going to have to last me the year. They have to theatrical enough for Seville yet practical enough for the U.K.
So I needed something dressy, theatrical yet practical, sustainable yet frivolous
Seville Wardrobe

Chiffon Shirt For the Feria the week-long party in Seville, I made a chiffon top. I know – get me…. in chiffon which I wore with the
The Ebay Fabric Jacket
Downton (Yorkshire Wool) Waistcoat
The Bombazine Skirt
I looked flamboyant at least.


Then back to rather less showy Huddersfield for what I thought was going to be a hot summer. There were a couple of hot and steamy weeks I sewed sleeveless frocks and cool skirts. Then the weather turned obvs! so I had to quickly put together some rather warmer shirts. And buy some T shirts to wear under them.
Had hoped to be back on the road by winter but it was not to be so I had to make a thick skirt that I can wear with wooly tights and leggings.

Natural Fibres

Socks, Vests & Tees
2 pairs of socks from Debenhams 45g each

1 wool homemade 73g
Black vest gifted 144g
Bought In Mostly Natural Fibres (label etc might not be)
White vest gifted 105g
New spotty top – Marks & Sparks 160g
2 no 3/4 sleeve T 156g each
grey vest 105g Marks & Sparks

Trousers
Denim Long Shorts 316g
Linen Pants 414g

Skirts
Wrap Skirt 249g
stripy cotton skirt gifted 231g
The Bombazine Skirt 541g
Corduroy Skirt 300g

Tunics & Tops
Wrap Shirt Lawn Chiffon
Wrap shirt 108g
Offset Tunic 157g
Tabbard Frock 149g
Choir Boy 132g
Liberty Lawn Shirt 96g
Vogue lawn top 110g
Woolen Tunic 288g
Jackets & Other stuff
Yorkshire Wool Waistcoat 178g
Ebay Woolen jacket 180g

Total 3.835

Regenerated Fibres

Bamboo is a regenerated fibre and falls somewhere between natural and synthetcic. Some biodegradae some do not. Bamboo is a form of regenerated fibre. Personally I dont like it but the socks were a gift. Read more here 

1 ankle socks bamboo skull & crossbones 45g

Synthetic Fibres
Huge circular skirt 243g
New Swim Top 75g

Total 318g

Terms
By gifted I mean something that people have passed on to me because they no longer want it. Second hand but not purchased.
When I say cotton/ natural fibres that doesn’t include buttons and other such stuff which will almost certainly be synthetic. As might be the thread used to sew the fabric.
Unless you are talking about my own homemade clothes where I can tell you exactly what plastic has been used.

Sewing
I can’t afford to buy eco clothing but I can afford to make it. I have been stiching like a demon and this year most of my new clothes have been handmade. Sadly my sewing skills are not so great. There are ome rather strange outfits in there. You can read my plastic free sewing tips here…

You can read more about my home made clothes here

Error: View 4d9b2e5vjr may not exist