Building a new van and I want it to be as environmental and as plastic free as possible. Decorating is very dirty work and needs a lot of research.
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Timber finishes include
varnishes –
paint –
oils –
waxes –
sealing
Timber finishes fall into 2 basic categories, those which provide a protective coating on the surface and those which penetrate (or soak into) the surface.
Varnishes, lacquers and paints provide protective surface coatings.
Oils provide penetrative finishes.
Waxes can be either, they can be applied to a varnished/painted surface (in which case they give a surface coating) or to bare timber (in which case they give a penetrative finish).
read more
Varnishes
Traditional varnishes and lacquers were made from resins and natural oils
Components of classic varnish would include a
Drying oil
Resin
Solvent Traditionally, natural (organic) turpentine was used as the thinner or solvent,
Most modern types of varnish are based on synthetic resins and thinners although low-fume, water based acrylic varnishes are also available.
Polyurethane is the most common solvent used in modern varnishes.and mineral-based turpentine substitutes such as white spirit or “paint thinner”, also known as “mineral spirit”.
Polyeurothenes are are petrochemical-based polymers.
Common polyurethane applications include:
Building insulation
Refrigerators and freezers
Furniture and bedding
Footwear
Automotive
Coatings and adhesives
Other applications read more here.
Catalysed varnishes provide a chemically cured surface which is harder than the normal Polyurethane varnishes and which gives a robust surface.
Water based acrylic varnishes are also available which give off less fumes during application, they cure by water evaporation. These tend to have shorter dry times than solvent based varnishes so that the job can be completed quicker. The finish look tends to be less natural looking than solvent based varnishes,
Normally all varnishes are available as clear or coloured varnish, even clear varnish will tend to darken the timber and, being a surface coating, a coloured varnish tends to ‘subdue’ the wood grain of the floor – to change the colour of the timber, it is often better to first stain the timber and then use a clear varnish rather than using a coloured varnish.
Oils.
Danish oil, Linseed oil, Teak oil and Tung oil are all suitable for both hardwood and softwoods and give the wood a natural looking finish, slightly darkening the timber while enhancing the grain.
Waxes.
Wax protects and enhances the appearance of the wood but can become easily marked especially by water spills.
Wax can also be applied to a varnish finish to give it additional protection. read more
Sealing.
Sealing is not a finish in its own right, just a requirement to treat the timber before a finish is applied.
Depending on the type of timber, ‘sealing’ has one of two functions – to keep the oils of the timber in or to prevent the subsequent finish from soaking too far into the timber. Most often the first applies to tropical hardwoods while the latter to softwoods.
Softwoods can generally be sealed by applying one or two coats of thinned varnish (30 to 50% – but check what the manufacturer states), this is suitable for both varnish and wax finishes.
Hardwoods can be more difficult to seal as they must first be ‘cleaned’, it is recommended that a specific ‘wood sealer’ is used and the manufacturer’s instructions followed as appropriate to the type of hardwood involved.
Shellac
This finish is actually a natural product (it’s made from combining a secretion from the female lac bug with a solvent such as alcohol) that is very safe once dried and hardened. In addition to adding a protective coat, it also can add a warm amber color to wood. It can be affected by heat (white rings will appear under a hot bowl or mug) or chemicals, so a kitchen table might not be the best place to use it. Fine furniture items can be greatly enhanced with shellac. Some shellac manufacturers recommend using it as a protective coat on non-wood items. Apply it with a natural bristle brush or with a cotton rag.
So which existing products shall I use?
Danish oil is a wood finishing oil, often made of tung oil or polymerized linseed oil, although there is no defined formulation so its composition varies among manufacturers.
Danish oil is a hard drying oil, meaning it can polymerize into a solid form. It can provide a hard-wearing, often water-resistant satin finish, or serve as a primer on bare wood before applying paint or varnish. It is a “long oil” finish, a mixture of oil and varnish, typically around one-third varnish and the rest oil.[1][2]
Dapwood furniture have this to say about danish wood oil
What does Danish Oil contain?
The ingredients contained in Danish Oil is extremely varied with each manufacturer having their own proprietary mixtures and percentages. However, most Danish Oils contain many of the following:
Toxic Waste
Mineral Spirits
Aromatic Petroleum Distillates
Mineral Oil
Stoddard Solvent
Tung Oil
Linseed Oil
Man-made and/or Natural Resins
Man-made and/or Natural Varnishes
Unspecified Vegetable Oil
Dipropylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether
Naptha
Japanese Dryers
Cobalt Dryers
Heavy Metal Dryers
Some notes
AURO NATURAL PAINTS
NATURAL WOOD HARD OIL WOODEN FLOORS – ECO FRIENDLY NON TOXIC AURO 126
£33.00 inc VAT 750ml